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Suit knowledge

211 articles

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 1 on the suit: overview, six core values, how a suit differs from a blazer and a tuxedo, and a formula for choosing your first suit

What Is a Suit? The Foundation of a Man's Image

What a suit is, how it differs from a blazer and a tuxedo, when to wear one, and how to choose your first suit — from the tailors at Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 4 on ready-to-wear: an overview of off-the-peg clothing and a comparison of RTW with MTM and bespoke

What Is Ready-to-Wear? Understanding Off-the-Peg Clothing

What ready-to-wear is, how it differs from made-to-measure and bespoke, and when an off-the-peg suit is the right call — explained by Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 5 on full canvas: the layers of the construction, comparison with half canvas and fused, and how a full canvas jacket is made

What Is Full Canvas? The Finest Jacket Construction

Full canvas is the finest way to build a jacket: beautiful drape, soft shape retention, and a fit that improves with wear. Know it before investing.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 6 on Half Canvas: jacket construction, comparison with full canvas and fused, the half canvas build process

What Is Half Canvas? The Sweet Spot in Tailored Jackets

Half canvas places canvas at the chest and lapel — balancing structure, wearing comfort and cost against full canvas and fused construction.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 7 on Fused construction: glued interlining structure, comparison with half canvas and full canvas, when to choose fused

What Is Fused Construction? Understanding Glued Interlining

Fused construction is not an inferior choice — understand it properly and choose the suit that fits your needs, budget and timeline.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 8 on the Business Suit: definition of the office suit, six core values and the formula for a first suit

What Is a Business Suit? The Executive Standard Explained

How does a business suit differ from a wedding suit, tuxedo or blazer? When to choose one, and the formula for your first, from Mon Amie's artisans.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 13 on the lapel: suit lapel styles, their role, common mistakes and how to choose well

What Is a Lapel? Choosing the Right Suit Lapel Style

The lapel defines the character of a suit. Learn the five common lapel styles and how to choose the right one for your build and the occasion.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 14 on the shoulder: shoulder styles, their effect on silhouette and common fit faults

The Suit Shoulder: Foundation of the Whole Silhouette

The shoulder decides the silhouette, bearing and quality of a suit. Learn the shoulder styles, common fit faults and how to get it right.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 15 on trousers: trouser construction, rise and pleat, the break of the leg and common fit faults

Suit Trousers: How to Choose Them Down to the Detail

Trousers are the foundation of style: construction, rise, pleats, break and the fit faults to avoid when choosing suit trousers.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 16 on the Waistcoat: definition, role, two-piece versus three-piece suits, fit faults and how to style it

What Is a Waistcoat? The Third Piece, Worn Properly

The waistcoat is the third layer that makes a three-piece suit: its role, when to wear it, common fit faults and how Mon Amie styles it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 17 on the Waistcoat: definition, role, two-piece versus three-piece suits, fit faults and how to style a waistcoat

What Is a Waistcoat? The Foundation of Style and Standing

What a waistcoat is, its role in a three-piece suit, the fit faults to avoid and how to style it, according to Mon Amie's artisans.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 37 on Canvas: its construction, the types of canvas and how to recognise quality canvas in a jacket

What Is Canvas? The Hidden Soul of a Tailored Jacket

Canvas is the interlining that governs 80% of a jacket's beauty and lifespan. Understand full, half and fused canvas before you commission a suit.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 38 on Finishing: the 12 essential finishing details of a suit

What Is Finishing? The Details That Define a Suit

Finishing is every closing detail in the making of a suit — where a tailor's skill and patience show most clearly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 40 on Canvas: comparing full canvas, half canvas and fused construction, and the layers of a traditional canvas

Full Canvas, Half Canvas or Fused: Which to Choose?

Comparing full canvas, half canvas and fused on durability, drape and cost — plus how to test canvas yourself before you commission a jacket.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 43 on the Two Piece Suit: definition, advantages, styling and the common mistakes made when wearing one

What Is a Two Piece Suit? The Gentleman's Classic

A two piece suit is a jacket and trousers cut from the same cloth — the most common suit of all. When to wear one, and how to style it well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 44 on the Dinner Jacket: definition, comparison with the tuxedo, cloth, styling and common mistakes

What Is a Dinner Jacket? The Height of Evening Style

What a dinner jacket is, how it differs from a tuxedo, when to wear one and how to style it for Black Tie — from Mon Amie's Tailor Library.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 46 on the double breasted suit: definition, who it suits, when to wear it, key details and common mistakes

What Is a Double Breasted Suit? The Jacket of Presence

A double breasted suit has two parallel rows of buttons and an overlapping front — a classic cut that builds a V-shape for the confident man.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 47 on the single breasted suit: definition, occasions, combinations and common mistakes

What Is a Single Breasted Suit? The Classic Everyday Cut

Single breasted — the classic one-row-of-buttons suit: why it is the most popular cut, when to wear it, how to combine colours and mistakes to avoid.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 50 on the notch lapel: definition, comparison with peak and shawl lapels, common mistakes and the rules for choosing a lapel

What Is a Notch Lapel? The Balanced, Everyday Lapel

Notch lapel — the most common lapel on modern suits: its character, when it works, how it differs from peak and shawl, and mistakes to avoid.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 51 on the peak lapel: definition, comparison of lapel styles, who should choose it and how to style it correctly

What Is a Peak Lapel? The Lapel of Authority

A peak lapel points upward toward the shoulder — the most formal and commanding of all lapels. Who should wear it, and how to style it well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 52 on the shawl lapel: definition, comparison with notch and peak lapels, materials, common mistakes and styling guidance

What Is a Shawl Lapel? The Curved Lapel of the Tuxedo

The shawl lapel is a single unbroken curve with no notch or peak — the signature of the tuxedo. How to choose and wear it well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 53 on the soft shoulder: definition, comparison with the structured shoulder and tips for choosing a soft shoulder line

What Is a Soft Shoulder? The Relaxed Suit Shoulder

A soft shoulder uses little padding and no stiff fusing, falling naturally with your own shoulder line — supple, comfortable and modern.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 54 on the structured shoulder: definition, comparison with the soft shoulder and tips for choosing a built-up shoulder line

What Is a Structured Shoulder in a Suit Jacket?

A structured shoulder — built with padding and canvas — creates a standing shoulder line, a sharp silhouette and a commanding presence.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 55 on the natural shoulder: definition, comparison with soft and structured shoulders, how to recognise it and how to style it

What Is a Natural Shoulder in a Tailored Suit?

A natural shoulder uses no padding, or almost none, following your true shoulder slope — supple, comfortable and quietly refined.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 56 on the chest: the role of the jacket chest, the chest piece, signs of a well-built chest and common fit faults

What Is the Chest of a Suit Jacket? Where Form Begins

The chest is the heart of a jacket's front, governing fit, drape and bearing. How to recognise a well-built chest and avoid common fit faults.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 57 on the waist: the role of the jacket waist, degrees of suppression, common fit faults and tips for a better waistline

What Is Jacket Waist? The Soul of a Suit's Silhouette

The waist is where a jacket is gently shaped to the body, setting proportion and presence. How to choose the right degree of suppression for your figure.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 58 on the vent: types of jacket vent, how to choose for your figure, and common mistakes

What Is a Vent? Choosing the Right Jacket Vent

The vent at the back of a jacket governs comfort, drape and bearing. Understand no vent, single vent and double vent, and choose for figure and occasion.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 59 on the centre vent: its character, comparison with side vents, common faults and tips for choosing a centre vent

What Is a Centre Vent? The Classic Single Vent Explained

The centre vent is the most classic opening at the back of a jacket: its character, strengths and limits, how it compares to side vents, and how to choose.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 60 on side vents: their role, comparison with the centre vent, common faults and tips for correctly cut side vents

What Are Side Vents? The Versatile Choice for a Suit

Side vents are the twin openings at a jacket's hips, giving easy movement and natural shape. Their advantages, and how to have them cut correctly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 61 on Pockets: suit pocket types, their effect on style, and the principles behind choosing them

Suit Pockets Explained: 6 Types and How to Choose

A pocket does more than hold things. Discover the 6 essential suit pocket types, how each shapes your style, and Mon Amie's rules for choosing well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 62 on the Patch Pocket: definition, comparison with flap and welt pockets, cloths and styling

What Is a Patch Pocket? The Relaxed Jacket Detail

Patch pockets on a casual blazer: when to choose them, their strengths and limits, the right cloths, and how to wear them, from Mon Amie's artisans.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 63 on the Flap Pocket: definition, strengths and limits, pocket comparisons and tips for choosing the right flap

What Is a Flap Pocket? Balancing Formal and Casual

Flap pockets on a suit jacket: when to choose them, their strengths and limits, how they compare with jetted, patch and ticket pockets, and how to get them right.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 64 on High Rise: high-waisted trousers and the art of balancing proportion

What Is High Rise? Trousers Built for Perfect Proportion

High rise trousers lengthen the leg, tidy the torso and lift your bearing. How to choose them, what marks a good pair, and the mistakes to avoid.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 65 on the Side Adjuster: construction, advantages, and how to choose trousers with waist adjusters

What Is a Side Adjuster? Fine-Tuning Trousers at the Waist

Side adjusters let fine trousers fit the waist precisely without a belt. Their advantages, how to use them, and the mistakes to avoid, with Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 71 on the Roll Line: what it is, how to recognise it, and the common faults of a lapel roll

What Is a Roll Line? The Lapel Curve of a Fine Suit

The roll line decides how softly a lapel curves and how a suit carries itself. How to recognise a good roll line and the faults to avoid.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 72 on the Buttonhole: what it is, its purpose, the marks of quality and five common styles

What Is a Buttonhole? The Detail That Marks a Fine Suit

The lapel buttonhole holds a boutonniere — a small detail that reveals at once whether a suit was tailored with real craft.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 73 on the Sleeve: correct length, structure and common faults of a suit sleeve

Suit Sleeves: Correct Length, Structure and Common Faults

A correct suit sleeve covers the wrist and shows 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff. Mon Amie on sleeve length, structure and five common faults.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 74 on the Collar: its role, the correct collar hug, the collar gap fault and its meaning in bespoke fit

What Is a Suit Collar? A Small Detail With Great Weight

The collar governs the shape and quality of a suit. Learn what a clean collar hug looks like, the collar gap fault and its place in bespoke.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 76 on the hem: trouser finishes, break levels and common mistakes

What Is a Trouser Hem? Length, Break and the Perfect Finish

The hem decides how your trousers fall, how they break and how the whole suit reads. Hemmed, turn-up, cuffed and the right length, explained.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 77 on the waistband: construction, correct hold, side adjusters, belt loops and tailoring standards

What Is a Waistband? The Foundation of Well-Fitting Trousers

The waistband governs the fit and shape of suit trousers. Its proper construction, the right degree of hold and the faults worth knowing.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 78 on leg opening: what it means, suggested widths by shoe and height, and common mistakes

What Is Leg Opening? The Right Trouser Width at the Hem

Leg opening shapes how trousers fall, how balanced they look and how you carry yourself. How to choose it by shoe, height and build.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 79 on the waistcoat: definition, role in layering, common mistakes and bespoke standards

What Is a Waistcoat? The Layer That Gives a Suit Its Presence

The waistcoat is the sleeveless layer worn under the jacket — the piece that gives a three-piece suit depth, presence and polish.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 80 on waistcoat fit: correct closeness, length, button placement and common faults

Waistcoat Fit: How a Suit Waistcoat Should Sit on You

What does a correct waistcoat fit look like? Length, button line, how it works with shirt and jacket, and six common faults to avoid.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 85 on Jacket Length: finding the correct suit jacket length, its relation to height and common faults

What Is Jacket Length? The Correct Suit Length by Height

Jacket length governs your proportions: the golden hand rule, recommendations by height, and the too-short and too-long faults to avoid.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 86 on Balance: front-to-back harmony, signs of imbalance and how a jacket is corrected

What Is Balance? The Soul of a Well-Made Jacket

Balance is how a jacket sits front to back and against your posture. How to spot imbalance and correct it so a suit hangs naturally.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 91 on hand stitching: the role of handwork, where it appears on a jacket, how to recognise it and how it compares with machine sewing

What Is Hand Stitching? The Soul of a Bespoke Suit

What hand stitching is, why it is the soul of bespoke, how to recognise genuine handwork and how it differs from machine sewing.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 92 on the Milanese buttonhole: the Milan hand-sewn technique, how to recognise it and how to care for it

What Is a Milanese Buttonhole? The Peak of Bespoke

The Milanese buttonhole is hand-sewn in 20-30 minutes and marks the finest bespoke. How to recognise it, its value and how to care for it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 101 on Lining v3 fashion-history-why: the value and history of suit lining

What Is Lining? The Hidden Layer That Defines a Suit

Lining is the layer almost nobody sees, yet it shapes how a made-to-measure suit feels, holds its form and carries your personal signature.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 102 on the Summer Suit: definition, the value of lightness, fabrics and tailoring details for warm weather

What Is a Summer Suit? A Modern Man's Warm-Weather Answer

A summer suit uses light, breathable cloth and a soft construction to keep you polished and comfortable through the hottest days.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 104 on suit buttons: common button materials, placement and purpose, how to choose the right buttons

Suit Buttons: The Small Detail That Defines a Suit

Suit buttons do more than fasten. Explore horn, mother of pearl and corozo, where each row sits, and how to choose well with Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 105 on the Back: the structure and value of the jacket back in tailoring

The Suit Back: Why It Reveals True Tailoring Quality

The back of a jacket shows tailoring most honestly: fit, drape, the centre seam and the vent. Learn to judge a suit properly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 106 on the Breast Pocket: the jacket breast pocket, its purpose, pocket square folds and pairing principles

What Is a Breast Pocket? Pocket Squares and How to Fold Them

The breast pocket is a small detail that defines the focal point of a jacket front. Learn its purpose and six classic pocket square folds.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 107 on the Cuff: what a cuff is, common cuff styles and how to achieve a well-made cuff

What Is a Cuff? The Small Detail That Finishes a Suit

The cuff finishes the sleeve, and the 0.5–1 cm of shirt on show decides how polished you look. Cuff styles and how to get them right.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 108 on the Pleat: what trouser pleats are, single, double and triple pleat styles and how to pair them

What Are Pleats on Trousers? Comfort, Drape and Elegance

Pleats are folds at the front waistband that give trousers comfort, drape and elegance. Single, double and triple pleats, and when to choose them.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 109 on the Flat Front: unpleated flat front trousers, the value of clean lines and their place in tailoring

What Are Flat Front Trousers? The Modern Minimal Choice

What flat front trousers are, why an unpleated front became the standard of the modern suit, and who should choose them. Mon Amie explains.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 110 on the Fly: construction, common fly styles and how to care for the front opening of a trouser

What Is a Trouser Fly? Construction and Tailoring Standards

The fly is the front opening of a trouser: zip, facings and closure. Its construction, the common fly styles and how to care for it properly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 111 on Belt Loop: definition, function, tailoring standards and a comparison with side adjusters

What Is a Belt Loop? Its Role in Tailored Trousers

A belt loop is the small detail that keeps your belt in place and your waistband in shape. Understand it, and your tailored trousers stay sharp.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 116 on Solid: plain fabric, the classic colours and how to combine them

What Is Solid Fabric? The Power of Plain Cloth

What is solid fabric? Plain, pattern-free cloth is the foundation of a man's wardrobe. Mon Amie on its value, classic colours and how to wear it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 117 on Plaid: checked patterns on a suit, the common plaid families and how to combine colours

What Is Plaid? Choosing and Wearing a Plaid Suit

What is plaid? Understand the checked pattern, the common plaid families and how to choose and combine a plaid suit, guided by Mon Amie's artisans.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 118 on Houndstooth: the classic weave, its variants and how to combine colours on a men's suit

What Is Houndstooth? The Classic Weave in Tailoring

What is houndstooth? Explore the classic broken-check weave, its common variants and how to choose and wear it, guided by Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 119 on Stripe: striped patterns, the common stripe types and the principles of combining them

What Is a Stripe? Striped Suits and How to Choose

What is a stripe? Stripes lengthen the frame, set a rhythm and read professional. Mon Amie on pinstripe, chalk stripe and how to wear them.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 120 on Check: checked patterns, the common check types and how to combine them

What Is Check? Checked Cloth and Depth in a Suit

What is check? Checked cloth brings depth and character to blazers and suits. Mon Amie on glen check, windowpane, gingham and how to wear them.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 123 on darts: the shaping lines on the body of a tailored jacket

What Is a Dart? Shaping a Tailored Jacket

A dart is a stitched fold that removes surplus cloth to create shape and closeness. Mon Amie explains the types of dart and the rules for a fine one.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 124 on construction: the inner structural layers of a tailored jacket

What Is Construction? The Inner Structure of a Jacket

Construction is the inner structure of a jacket — what decides shape, durability and how it wears. Mon Amie explains the layers and full canvas.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 144 on the dress shirt: the anatomy of a proper shirt, how to choose it and how to care for it

What Is a Dress Shirt? The Foundation of Every Suit

A dress shirt is the tailored layer that decides how clean a suit looks. Mon Amie guides you on collars, cloth, fit and proper shirt care.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 167 on Silhouette: the overall shape of a suit with examples of body proportion

What Is Silhouette? The Suit Shape That Decides Everything

Silhouette is the overall line of a suit seen from a distance. Understand it well and your suit will flatter, refine, and hold its value for years.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 183 on the lounge suit

What is a lounge suit? The foundation of a man's wardrobe

The lounge suit is menswear's most versatile foundation: formal enough for business, comfortable enough for daily life. Understand it to invest well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 184 on the travel suit

What is a travel suit? Tailoring built for the road

A travel suit is optimised for packed schedules: wrinkle-resistant cloth and fast shape recovery, from early flight to afternoon meeting.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 185 on formal suit

What is a Formal Suit? Dressing for occasions that matter

A formal suit sits a notch above business wear. How to recognise one by colour, cloth and detail — and how to choose yours for a big occasion.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 186 on casual suit

What is a Casual Suit? Tailoring made for everyday life

A casual suit reinterprets tailoring in a softer, lighter, freer way. How to spot one by cloth, construction and detail — and wear it well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 187 on morning suit

What is a Morning Suit? Formal daytime dress explained

The morning suit — morning coat, striped trousers and waistcoat — is the most formal daytime dress. Its rules, occasions and how to wear it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 188 on tailcoat

What is a Tailcoat? The coat at the heart of white tie

The tailcoat is cut squarely at the waist in front with long tails behind — the centre of white tie, the highest level of evening dress.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 189 on the prince coat

What Is a Prince Coat? Ceremonial Wear Beyond the Suit

What a prince coat is, how it differs from a suit or sherwani, when to wear one, and how to have it tailored — from Mon Amie's artisans.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 190 on the safari jacket

What Is a Safari Jacket? Practical Style Done Right

What a safari jacket is, how to spot its four bellows pockets and belt, and how to style and fabric it for a hot climate — from Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 191 on the armhole

What Is an Armhole? The Detail That Decides Comfort

What an armhole is, why a high armhole is actually more comfortable, and how to test it at a fitting — tailoring knowledge from Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 192 on the ticket pocket

What Is a Ticket Pocket? A Small Detail with History

What a ticket pocket is, its British railway origins, and when to add one to a tailored jacket — and when not to — from Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 193 on the sleeve head

What Is a Sleeve Head? The Detail That Shapes a Suit's Shoulder

The sleeve head is the crown of the sleeve where it meets the body — the detail that decides how clean a suit's shoulder and sleeve line look.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 194 on the gorge line

What Is the Gorge Line? The Seam That Sets a Suit's Proportions

The gorge line is the seam joining collar and lapel — a few centimetres that govern lapel height, chest proportion, and a jacket's whole character.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 195 on pants

What Are Suit Pants? The Trousers' Role in a Complete Suit

Pants — suit trousers — are the lower half of the suit, governing leg proportion, stance, and how polished the whole outfit reads.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 196 on the single pleat

What Is a Single Pleat? One Front Pleat, Quiet Comfort

A single pleat is one fold on each front of a trouser — the balance point between a flat front's clean line and a double pleat's classic ease.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 197 on Double Pleat

What Is a Double Pleat? Twin Front Pleats in Tailoring

Double-pleat trousers carry two folds on each front panel. Why this classic detail is back, who it flatters, and how to order it right.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 198 on Mid Rise

What Is Mid Rise? The Middle Trouser Rise Explained

Mid rise places the waistband between navel and hip — the safest rise for modern tailored trousers. How to choose the right rise for your build.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 199 on Low Rise

What Is Low Rise? The Low Waistband and Its Limits

Low rise places the waistband well below the natural waist, resting on the hips. When it works, and when it ruins a suit — Mon Amie explains.

Mon Amie Tailor Library cover No. 200 on Outseam

What Is the Outseam? The Outer Seam and Trouser Length

The outseam is the outer leg seam and the outer-length measurement from waistband to hem. Understand it to get length and break exactly right.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 201 on Turn-ups: a charcoal trouser cuff above black oxford shoes

What Is a Turn-Up? Trouser Cuffs in Made-to-Measure

A turn-up is a folded, stitched hem at the bottom of the trouser. Mon Amie on its value, correct proportions and when to choose one.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 202 on Suspender Buttons: a row of braces buttons inside a trouser waistband

What Are Suspender Buttons? Braces Buttons Explained

Suspender buttons are sewn inside the waistband to carry braces instead of a belt. Mon Amie on the value of this quietly bespoke detail.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 203 on the Zip Fly: a close view of a brass zip on an open navy trouser fly

What Is a Zip Fly? Trouser Flies and Six Standards

A zip fly is the zipped front closure of a trouser: discreet and durable. Mon Amie on its value and the six marks of a clean tailored fly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 204 on the Button Fly: horn buttons on the fly of charcoal flannel trousers

What Is a Button Fly? The Classic Gentleman's Trouser

A button fly closes trousers with buttons instead of a zip. Mon Amie explains its value and six reasons gentlemen still choose it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 205 on the Pocket Opening: the mouth of a trouser pocket with a hand slipping in

What Is a Pocket Opening? Trouser Pockets and a Clean Hip

The pocket opening is the front pocket mouth of a trouser. A small detail that governs looks, function and durability — six marks of a good one.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 206 on the Coin Pocket: a small coin pocket on dress trousers with an antique coin

What Is a Coin Pocket? A Small Pocket, A Long Heritage

The coin pocket sits inside the front pocket of a trouser, a legacy of the 19th century. Why this tiny detail still defines a bespoke trouser.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 207 on the Back Pocket: the rear of grey dress trousers with two buttoned back pockets

What Is a Back Pocket? The Rear View of a Fine Trouser

The back pocket is the least observed part of a trouser and the clearest test of skill. Three styles and six rules for placing them properly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 209 on the Double Breasted Vest: a gentleman in a three-piece suit with a double breasted waistcoat and watch chain

What Is a Double Breasted Vest? The Classic Statement Waistcoat

A double breasted vest overlaps at the front and fastens with two rows of buttons. Six defining features and the occasions that suit it best.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 210 on the Single Breasted Vest: a single breasted waistcoat within a navy three-piece suit

What Is a Single Breasted Vest? The Elegant Waistcoat

A single breasted vest has one button row — a minimal design that flatters, pairs easily and elevates a three-piece suit. Mon Amie explains.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 211 on the V-neck: the V-shaped opening of a waistcoat in a navy three-piece suit

What Is a V-Neck? The Waistcoat Opening That Frames a Tie

A v-neck is the V-shaped waistcoat opening at the chest, framing the tie and lending the outfit air. Mon Amie explains six advantages of the V.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 212 on the Shawl Collar Vest: a shawl collar waistcoat in a black tuxedo with a bow tie

What Is a Shawl Collar Vest? The Waistcoat for Black Tie

A shawl collar vest has a smooth, unbroken rounded lapel — refined and softly elegant, ideal for black tie, galas and formal weddings.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 213 on the Back Strap: a waist adjuster with a metal buckle on the back of a black waistcoat

What Is a Back Strap? The Waistcoat's Rear Waist Adjuster

A back strap is the adjuster at the rear of a waistcoat that tightens or eases the waist for a precise fit. Mon Amie explains its six uses.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 214 on the waist adjuster: a metal side tab at the waistband of black dress trousers

What Is a Waist Adjuster? The Tailored Waist Detail

A waist adjuster sits at the back of a waistcoat or the side of trousers to fine-tune the fit. Mon Amie explains four types and six reasons it matters.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 216 on the lining back: the satin back of a black waistcoat with a metal adjuster buckle

What Is a Lining Back? The Waistcoat's Lined Back Panel

A lining back is the waistcoat's rear panel, made in light, smooth lining cloth. Discover its value, the main types and six roles it plays.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 217 on the welt pocket: a close view of a double-welt pocket with two parallel edges on a black waistcoat

What Is a Welt Pocket? The Clean-Edged Tailored Pocket

A welt pocket has its edging turned inward, leaving a slim, flat opening. Discover its value, the main variations and six marks of a fine welt.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 218 on the button stand: the row of buttons along the central axis of a tailored black waistcoat

What Is a Button Stand? The Waistcoat's Central Axis

The button stand is the strip of cloth along the buttoning edge, the central axis that governs balance across the front. Six things it decides.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 219 on the front panel: a gentleman in a charcoal six-button waistcoat with a close-fitting front

What Is a Front Panel? The Face of a Waistcoat

The front panel is the entire face of a waistcoat, from shoulder to hem. Five front shapes and the six jobs this panel quietly performs.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 220 on the back panel: a waistcoat back with adjuster strap and a range of backing fabrics

What Is a Back Panel? The Waistcoat's Quiet Half

The back panel is the rear of a waistcoat, cut in lining with an adjuster strap. The quiet detail that decides fit and all-day comfort.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 221 on the five-button vest: a five-button waistcoat within a navy three-piece suit

What Is a Five-Button Vest? The Balanced Classic

A five-button vest fastens with five buttons at the front for a balanced, elegant line. Why five feels right and how to spot a well-made one.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 222 on the six-button vest: a six-button waistcoat worn with a tuxedo and black bow tie

What Is a Six-Button Vest? The Formal Classic

A six-button vest closes high on the chest for a formal, commanding presence. When to choose six buttons and how to judge the making.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 223 on the low-cut vest: a deep-opening waistcoat revealing the tie within a three-piece suit

What Is a Low-Cut Vest? The Deep Opening Explained

A low-cut vest opens deep at the chest, showing more shirt and tie for a graceful, modern line. How to recognise one and why it works.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 224 on the high-cut vest: a waistcoat cut close to the collar, worn with a pocket watch chain

What Is a High-Cut Vest? The Discreet, Formal Waistcoat

A high-cut vest is a waistcoat cut close to the collar for a discreet, formal look. Its hallmarks, best occasions and how to choose one.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 225 on the U-shape vest: a gentleman in a U-cut waistcoat with a pocket watch chain

What Is a U-Shape Vest? The Classic Curved Waistcoat

A U-shape vest is a waistcoat with a curved U opening that reveals more shirt and tie. Mon Amie explains its construction and how to wear it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 226 on the horseshoe waistcoat: a gentleman in a tuxedo with a horseshoe waistcoat and black bow tie

What Is a Horseshoe Waistcoat? The Black Tie Standard

The horseshoe waistcoat is deeply cut in a horseshoe curve, a standard of black tie and white tie. Mon Amie on its construction and occasions.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 227 on the evening waistcoat: a gentleman in a black tuxedo with an evening waistcoat and black bow tie

What Is an Evening Waistcoat? The Tuxedo's Quiet Layer

An evening waistcoat is made expressly for evening dress, usually worn with a tuxedo. Mon Amie shares the six marks of a true evening waistcoat.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 228 on the day waistcoat: a gentleman in a brown tweed waistcoat with a polka dot tie by day

What Is a Day Waistcoat? Elegant, Easy Daytime Layering

A day waistcoat is made in lighter cloth and quiet colours, easy to wear with suits and blazers. Mon Amie shares the six qualities it needs.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 229 on the contrast back: a beige waistcoat back set against a charcoal front

What Is a Contrast Back? The Waistcoat's Hidden Statement

A contrast back is a waistcoat whose back panel uses a different cloth or colour from the front. Mon Amie explains six ways it creates interest.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 230 on vest opening: the front opening of a waistcoat within a three-piece suit

What Is Vest Opening? The Waistcoat Line That Leads the Eye

Vest opening is the front opening of a waistcoat, leading the eye from collar to buttons and setting the balance of a three-piece suit.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 240 on the crotch: the structure of the trouser seat and six signs of a balanced crotch

What Is the Crotch? The Detail That Decides Comfort

The crotch is where the front, back and seat of a trouser meet — a small detail that governs the comfort and shape of the whole garment.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 241 on rise: the distance from trouser waist to crotch seam and six signs of a balanced rise

What Is Rise? Where Trousers Sit Shapes the Suit

Rise is the distance from the trouser waist to the crotch seam, deciding how high the trouser sits, your proportions and comfort in movement.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 257 on chalk stripe: a gentleman in a three-piece chalk stripe suit with six reasons the pattern reads as powerful

What Is Chalk Stripe? The Classic Stripe of Quiet Power

Chalk stripe is a soft, chalk-like vertical stripe set widely apart on dark cloth. Why it carries quiet authority, and how to wear it well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 258 on glen check: a grey three-piece check suit with six ways the pattern adds intellect to an outfit

What Is Glen Check? The Classic, Scholarly Check Pattern

Glen check is a classic check woven from interlocking grouped lines, common in fine suiting. What it offers and how to wear glen check well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 259 on Prince of Wales check: a grey complex-check three-piece suit alongside six reasons the pattern became an icon

What Is Prince of Wales Check? A Royal Heritage Pattern

Prince of Wales is a classic check built from interlocking small and large stripe groups. Its heritage, its value and how to wear it well.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 272 on floating canvas: a jacket cross-section revealing haircloth, canvas, chest piece and hand pad stitching

What Is Floating Canvas? The Finest Jacket Construction

Floating canvas is traditional construction: an unglued canvas layer floating against the cloth, so the jacket drapes naturally and fits without stiffness.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 273 on horsehair canvas: a close view of horsehair interlining beneath a jacket lapel with its six roles

What Is Horsehair Canvas? The Interlining Inside a Jacket

Horsehair canvas is an interlining woven from horsehair, stitched by hand into the forepart to give shape, chest support and natural durability.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 275 on pick stitching: a close view of visible hand stitching along the lapel of a navy suit

What Is Pick Stitching? The Hand Stitch on a Fine Suit

Pick stitching is visible hand stitching along lapels, pocket mouths and seams — the craft mark that separates a tailored suit from a factory one.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 276 on the hand rolled lapel: a charcoal suit lapel curving softly over the chest

What Is a Hand Rolled Lapel? The Mark of a Tailored Suit

A hand rolled lapel is shaped entirely by hand, rolled and secured to create a natural curve along the edge, with no fusing and no pressing machine.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 278 on skeleton lining: the inside of a navy suit jacket showing its minimal half-lined construction

What Is Skeleton Lining? Light Suits for Hot Climates

Skeleton lining keeps lining only at the shoulders, chest and pockets — a lighter, more breathable suit that still holds its shape properly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 279 on the roped shoulder: a close view of a crisply built shoulder line on a charcoal suit jacket

What Is a Roped Shoulder? The Commanding Suit Shoulder

A roped shoulder rolls the sleeve head upward with padding and hand-manipulated cloth, creating a crisp, powerful, architectural shoulder line.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 280 on spalla camicia: the soft Italian shirt-sleeve shoulder technique

What Is Spalla Camicia? The Soft Italian Shirt Shoulder

Spalla camicia is the Italian shirt-sleeve shoulder, gently shirred for comfort and natural movement while keeping an elegant, refined line.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 281 on the Neapolitan shoulder: the soft, naturally draping shoulder of Naples

What Is a Neapolitan Shoulder? Naples' Soft Draped Line

The Neapolitan shoulder is Naples' signature: a lightly shirred sleeve head and soft construction that drape naturally, comfortable yet elegant.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 282 on the chest piece: the layer of chest padding inside a tailored jacket

What Is a Chest Piece? The Padding That Shapes a Jacket

The chest piece is the padding and supporting cloth in the front chest of a jacket, adding fullness, support and lasting shape to the garment.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 283 on lapel roll: the natural rolling curve of a tailored jacket lapel

What Is Lapel Roll? The Curve That Marks a Bespoke Suit

Lapel roll is the natural curve along the lapel edge, created by hand pad stitching and shaping, so the lapel rolls softly with depth and elegance.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 284 on Facing: the fabric panel running along a jacket's front and lapel edges

What Is Facing? The Lining Along a Suit Jacket's Lapel Edge

Facing is the fabric panel sewn along a jacket's front and lapel edges, hiding the inner structure, creating a clean border and protecting the edges.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 285 on Reinforcement: the reinforced points on a suit jacket and the value of the technique

What Is Reinforcement? The Layers That Keep a Suit Lasting

Reinforcement is the set of supporting layers placed at a suit's stress points to hold its shape, resist wear and extend the life of the garment.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 292 on the side seam: an artisan's hands pinning along the side seam of a jacket

What Is a Side Seam? The Seam That Sets a Suit's Fit

The side seam runs down the flank joining the front and back panels, governing how closely a garment fits, how it drapes and how balanced it looks.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 293 on the centre seam: an artisan marking the centre back seam of a jacket seen from behind

What Is a Centre Seam? The Back Seam That Holds a Suit

The centre seam runs down the centre back of a jacket, joining two panels, stabilising the structure and bringing balance to the whole garment.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 295 on sleeve pitch: the angle of the sleeve where it joins the shoulder of a suit jacket

What Is Sleeve Pitch? The Angle That Governs Movement

Sleeve pitch is the angle at which a sleeve is set into the shoulder, deciding how it follows the natural movement of your arm and body.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 296 on jacket suppression: the jacket's shape before and after the body is shaped

What Is Jacket Suppression? Shaping the V-Line Silhouette

Jacket suppression reshapes the body of a jacket to reduce width at waist and hip, creating a gentle curve and a clean V-shaped silhouette.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 297 on waist suppression: the chest, waist, side seam and hip areas of a striped suit jacket

What Is Waist Suppression? Shaping the Waist Correctly

Waist suppression is the technique of shaping the waist of a jacket or waistcoat, creating a natural curve that flatters while staying comfortable.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 298 on collar gap: the space between a jacket collar and the wearer's shirt collar

What Is Collar Gap? Causes and How Tailors Fix It

Collar gap is the space between a jacket collar and your neck when standing naturally — a sign the collar is not hugging. Six causes and their fixes.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 299 on tight fit: a too-tight jacket compared with a well-fitting one on the same wearer

What Is a Tight Fit? Six Signs Your Suit Is Too Tight

A tight fit is a garment cut closer than it should be, straining the cloth and limiting movement. Six signs your suit jacket is too tight.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 300 on loose fit: spotting an oversized suit at the shoulders, chest, waist, sleeves and jacket length

What Is a Loose Fit? Six Signs Your Suit Is Too Big

A loose fit means far more room than the body needs. Learn six signs your suit is too big and how to correct them with Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 301 on refinement: attention to detail in made-to-measure suits

What Is Refinement? The Detail That Makes a Suit Memorable

Refinement is care taken in the smallest details, lifting a suit from good to memorable. Mon Amie explains its value and where it shows.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 305 on the Lounge Suit: a gentleman in a navy suit reading the paper in a classic study

What Is a Lounge Suit? The Classic Business Suit

The lounge suit is the classic English business suit: correct in shape, comfortable, quietly detailed. Why has it never gone out of fashion?

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 316 on British Style: a brown herringbone tweed three-piece suit in the English manner

What Is British Style? Savile Row Tailoring Explained

British style is English tailoring: clear structure, built shoulders, traditional cloth. Six elements to help you wear the Savile Row spirit.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 334 on collar stays: gold and silver metal collar stays laid beside a white dress shirt

What Is a Collar Stay? Keeping Shirt Collars Crisp

What is a collar stay, and how does it keep a shirt collar crisp all day? Mon Amie explains the purpose, materials and correct use of collar stays.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 341 on the ceremony jacket: a groom in an ivory shawl-lapel jacket with a black bow tie in a candlelit, flower-filled hall

What Is a Ceremony Jacket? Dressing for Formal Moments

A ceremony jacket is made for weddings, engagements, galas and black tie. Why it becomes the visual anchor of the occasion, by Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 343 on the morning coat: a gentleman in a black cutaway coat, grey waistcoat and striped trousers before an old castle

What Is a Morning Coat? Daytime Formal Dress Explained

A morning coat is traditional daytime formal dress: a cutaway tailcoat, a light waistcoat and grey striped trousers. When to wear it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 344 on the tailcoat: a gentleman in a black tailcoat with white waistcoat and white bow tie in a palace hall

What Is a Tailcoat? The Pinnacle of Formal Dress

A tailcoat pairs a white waistcoat with a white bow tie — the highest level of formality in menswear. When and how to wear it, by Mon Amie.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 345 on the formal waistcoat: a gentleman in a three-piece suit with a patterned waistcoat and pocket watch chain

What Is a Formal Waistcoat? Depth for Ceremonial Dress

A formal waistcoat is the ceremonial third layer that shapes the silhouette and adds depth to a three-piece suit or a tuxedo.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 360 on monograms: the letters M.A. embroidered on a shirt cuff and the Mon Amie name stitched inside a jacket lining

What Is a Monogram? Quiet Personalisation on a Suit

What is a monogram, and why do a few embroidered letters at the cuff or inside pocket make a tailored suit feel truly yours? Mon Amie explains.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 361 on office uniforms: a navy uniform suit hanging on a wooden Mon Amie hanger

What Is an Office Uniform? Dressing a Company Well

What is an office uniform, and how does a coherently designed one raise a company's credibility and perceived value? A tailor's perspective.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 362 on staff uniforms: a team in matching navy suit uniforms outside the Mon Amie showroom

What Is a Staff Uniform? Dressing a Team Professionally

What is a staff uniform, and how does coordinated dress make a team look professional and trustworthy while lifting the client experience?

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 364 on company identity: a team in navy uniforms standing before the Mon Amie Tailoring Excellence logo

What Is Company Identity? Uniforms That Build a Brand

What company identity is, and why a properly designed uniform is an essential piece of it. Insights from the Mon Amie tailoring house.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 368 on embroidered logos: an M monogram embroidered in gold thread on the chest of a navy blazer

What Is an Embroidered Logo? Branding on Fine Garments

An embroidered logo is stitched directly into cloth with fine thread. Why embroidery outlasts heat transfer, and six reasons to choose it.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 369 on the uniform blazer: a female receptionist wearing a navy blazer with an embroidered logo and name badge

What Is a Uniform Blazer? Elevating Your Team's Image

A uniform blazer combines a precise cut, durable cloth and refined details. Five standards and six reasons it elevates your team.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 370 on uniform trousers: navy uniform trousers with a correct cut, alongside criteria for silhouette, crease and cloth

What Are Uniform Trousers? The Correct Cut for Your Team

Uniform trousers share one silhouette, cloth and set of details, giving a whole team a professional and consistent appearance.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 371 on the uniform shirt: a white uniform shirt with a navy tie, alongside criteria for shape retention, breathability and colourfastness

What Is a Uniform Shirt? The Professional Standard

A uniform shirt shares one cut, cloth and colour across a team, creating a professional and consistent appearance.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 457 on the silhouette: shoulder, chest, waist and hip points, the value of good shape, trouser break and body proportions

What is a Silhouette? The Line That Defines Your Suit

The silhouette is the overall line of a garment seen from afar — the balance of shoulder, chest, waist, hip and the drape of every part.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 458 on proportion: diagram of shoulders, chest, waist, hips, trouser length and examples of balanced silhouettes

What is Proportion? The Silhouette of a Well-Cut Suit

Proportion shapes the first impression a suit makes. Understand shoulders, chest, waist, hips and trouser length to judge a silhouette properly.

Mon Amie Tailor Library poster No. 473 on visual balance: shoulder, chest, waist and hip landmarks, trouser length and body proportion examples

What is Visual Balance? Reading a Suit's Silhouette from Afar

What visual balance means, and why the shoulder–chest–waist–hip silhouette shapes most of the visual impression a suit makes.

Young entrepreneur in a Mon Amie tailored navy suit projecting a professional image

Which suit colour should a young entrepreneur start with?

A young entrepreneur's first suit should be deep navy: trustworthy in every meeting, easy to pair, and versatile from the boardroom to a wedding banquet.

The three foundation office suit colours navy charcoal and medium grey tailored at Mon Amie

Office suits: should navy, charcoal or medium grey come first?

Navy for meetings and negotiations, charcoal for the most formal occasions, medium grey for daytime warmth — each colour has its own distinct role.

A tailored black suit in a formal evening setting — Mon Amie's guide to choosing your first suit color

Is a black suit really the best first choice?

Usually not. Navy or charcoal is far more versatile for a first suit; black shines at formal evening events and black-tie occasions.

Comparing two-button and three-button jackets on a tall frame at the Mon Amie atelier

Two-button or three-button suit: which fits tall men better?

Tall men can wear both, but a three-button — especially a 3-roll-2 — uses height better: the longer button row fills the torso and avoids an overly deep V.

Comparison of the soft rounded shawl lapel and the sharp peak lapel on tuxedo jackets

When should you wear a shawl lapel vs a peak lapel?

The shawl lapel is reserved for tuxedos and evening wear — soft and elegant; the peak lapel is sharp and formal, at home on both tuxedos and important suits.

A pleated-bib formal shirt made specifically for black tie tuxedos

How does a formal tuxedo shirt differ from an office shirt?

Four key differences: a pleated or pique bib front, removable studs or a fly front, French cuffs for cufflinks, and a stiffer turndown or wing collar.

Cover image for Mon Amie's guide on choosing one all-season suit versus purpose-built suits

One all-season suit or separate suits by purpose?

Make your first suit an all-season navy or charcoal that covers every occasion; from the second suit on, divide by purpose so each suit does its job well.

A tailored navy suit by Mon Amie — the ideal color choice for a first suit

What color should your first suit be to wear it the most?

Dark navy is the best color for a first suit: formal enough for work, soft enough for events, and it pairs with almost every shirt, tie and shoe.

A tailored charcoal suit by Mon Amie — the second investment after navy

After your first navy suit, which color should you invest in next?

After navy, your second suit should be charcoal: it adds a higher level of formality, shares all your existing shirts and ties, and never duplicates navy's role.

A three-suit wardrobe in navy, charcoal and grey tailored at Mon Amie for working professionals

How do you build a 3-suit wardrobe for a busy professional?

The optimal 3-suit wardrobe: dark navy + charcoal + mid-grey in plain wool, with 5 shirts and 3 ties — enough for the whole working week and every event.

A Mon Amie tailored tuxedo for formal black-tie evenings

Is a tuxedo worth investing in if you wear it once or twice a year?

Commission a tuxedo if you attend black-tie galas every year and your weight is stable; if the occasions are rare, a well-styled dark suit or a rental makes more sense.

A first made-to-measure suit for a beginner building his wardrobe at Mon Amie

Should Beginners Get a Suit First, or Shirts and Shoes First?

Get the suit first: a well-fitted navy or charcoal suit is the foundation — shirts and shoes added later become easier and cheaper to choose.

A minimal suit wardrobe with basic shirts and ties arranged at Mon Amie

How Many Ties and Shirts Does a Minimal Suit Wardrobe Need?

With two foundation suits, five shirts (three white, two light blue) and three to four ties cover a full working week without repeating a look.

A versatile tailored suit from Mon Amie worn across contexts from business to evening events

How many occasions can one good suit actually cover?

A well-tailored navy or charcoal suit can cover 5–7 occasions — meetings, signings, weddings as a guest, events, dinner dates — just by changing shirt and accessories.

A correctly proportioned tailored suit at Mon Amie that keeps the wearer looking youthful

Which mistakes make a suit age you beyond your years?

A suit ages you through an oversized cut, trousers pooling at the shoe, dark shiny cloth and heavy accessories — not through the wearer's actual age.

Comparing a suit look on social media with real bespoke tailoring at Mon Amie

What are common mistakes when choosing a suit from social media?

Social media photos are posed, color-graded and pinned to fit the model. Copying them while ignoring your own body and context is the most common mistake.

A tailor takes a shoulder measurement with a tape, the first step of a made-to-measure suit and the basis of every men's suit size chart

Men's Suit Size Chart by Height and Weight, and How to Read It

A men's suit size chart by height, weight and chest, with 4 steps to read it and three Vietnamese body types. Why shoulders, not the belly, decide the size.

Navy pinstripe suit with a turquoise waistcoat, seated on a patterned upholstered chair, an example of suits for big men with fine vertical stripes and a clean cut

Suits for Big Men: 8 Rules for a Cleaner, Slimmer Fit

Suits for big men: 8 rules on shoulders, lapels, buttons, length, vents, cloth and trousers for a slimmer line, and what made-to-measure can fix.

Navy two-button suit with a fine white and orange pinstripe and notch lapels, illustrating how to button a suit jacket correctly

How to Button a Suit Jacket: What to Fasten, What to Leave Open

How to button a suit jacket with 1, 2 or 3 buttons and double-breasted styles: which to fasten, which to leave open, standing or sitting, plus common mistakes.

A black suit with bold peak lapels, one of the men's suit styles recognised by its button stance and lapel

Men's Suit Styles: 12 Types and How to Recognise Them Quickly

Men's suit styles come in 12 types by button stance, lapel and occasion. Learn to recognise each by eye and see which builds suit each one before you choose.

Navy double-breasted check suit jacket in a large navy check, a men's suit

Your First Men's Suit: 6 Decisions to Make Before Tailoring

First suit for men: colour, buttoning, lapel, canvas and vents to choose, whether to order two pairs of trousers, and why to start with the Essential line.

Charcoal grey suit with a close cut, paisley tie and white pocket square in a warm brown office, an example of a well-fitted slim fit suit

Slim Fit Suit: How It Differs From Regular Fit, Who Should Wear It

What is a slim fit suit, and how does it differ from regular fit and body fit in centimetres of ease? Plus five signs a slim fit has become too tight for you.

A first suit jacket fitting, adjusting the shoulder fit in front of a suit display, a key step in choosing a men's suit

How to Choose a Men's Suit: 7 Steps from Fit to Fine Detail

How to choose a men's suit in 7 steps: check shoulders, chest, waist, length, sleeves, trousers and canvas, plus a fitting checklist to avoid a wrong buy.

Light grey textured three-piece suit with a black tie, crystal chandelier and warm golden light, an example of a men's three-piece suit

Three-Piece vs Two-Piece Suit: Which Should You Have Made?

Three-piece suit vs two-piece suit: how they differ in function, heat in Saigon, cost and wearing the waistcoat alone. When the third piece is worth adding.

Man in a black tuxedo with satin lapels, black bow tie and polished leather shoes, illustrating a proper men's tuxedo

What Makes a Proper Men's Tuxedo? Spot One in 1 Minute

A proper men's tuxedo has satin lapels, covered buttons, satin-striped trousers and no vents or flaps. How to tell a real tuxedo from a black suit in a minute.

Trying on a navy blue suit while the tailor adjusts the cut around the shoulders and sleeves to check how a suit should fit

How should a suit fit? 10 points to check before the mirror

How should a suit fit? A 10-point checklist from shoulders, collar and chest to waist and trouser hem, with right and wrong signs and a home mirror check.

A slim young man in a navy suit with a polka-dot tie, an example of a suit for skinny men

Suits for skinny men: a cut that gives fuller shoulders

Suits for skinny men under 60 kg: choosing ease, shoulder padding, lapel width and fabric weight for fuller shoulders, while avoiding an over-tight slim fit.

Close-up of a blue peak-lapel double-breasted suit, hands in pockets, showing the details that mark a premium men's suit

How to Spot a Premium Men's Suit: 10 Tailoring Details

How to spot a premium men's suit by 10 tailoring details: canvas, lapel, cuffs, stitching, lining and buttons. Checks you can make in store, without the label.

Middle-aged gentleman in a black suit and striped tie in an elegant showroom, illustrating suits for middle-aged men

Suits for Middle-Aged Men: A Fit That Looks Sharp and Feels Easy

Suits for middle-aged men look best with a clean shoulder, room through chest and stomach, and a moderately high trouser rise. How to choose a fit at 40–55.

Navy suit jacket with brass buttons in a businessman's cut, one of the types of suits for men worn to the office and client meetings

Types of Suits for Men: 9 Kinds, Matched to the Occasion

Types of suits for men: business, lounge, dark, three-piece, double-breasted, tuxedo, morning, casual, travel. Nine types by formality and how to spot each.

Gray check suit with a gray waistcoat, a dark blue shirt and a wooden accessory box — what does a men's suit include

What Does a Men's Suit Include? Essential and Optional Pieces

What does a men's suit include? Jacket and trousers are essential, a waistcoat is optional; shirt, tie and shoes are accessories. Pieces needed by occasion.

Navy blazer with silver buttons, an example of a men's navy blazer with the right shoulder, structure and details for wearing separately

How to Choose a Men's Blazer: Fit, Structure and Details

How to choose a men's blazer by shoulder, structure, length, pockets, buttons and fabric, so it works worn alone with other trousers. Plus a mirror fit check.

A bronze-brown double-breasted blazer with a turquoise check, one of the common types of men's blazers

Types of Men's Blazers: 8 Common Styles and How to Spot Them

Types of men's blazers in eight styles: club blazer, sport coat, unstructured, double-breasted, mandarin, velvet, check and linen, and how formal each one is.

Smiling engineer trying on a blue suit jacket as a specialist adjusts the shoulder measurement to choose a European men's suit size

European Men's Suit Sizes 44–58: How to Read and Convert Them

A European men's suit size from 44 to 58 is half the chest in cm. How to read R, S, L codes, convert to S–XXL, US/UK and Asian sizes, and measure yourself.

Trying on a navy suit jacket while the tailor measures the jacket length to decide whether it is size XL or another size

What Weight Is a Size XL Suit Jacket? S to XXL Conversion

What weight is a size XL suit jacket? A weight and height chart for sizes S to XXL, why brands differ, and when to be measured instead of guessing your size.

A man in a relaxed grey suit leaning on a fabric catalogue, illustrating how to choose suit size 46 or 48 by body shape

Suit Size 46 and 48: How Many Kg? A Quick Reference Chart

What weight is suit size 46, and size 48? A size chart by weight, height and chest, plus why two men at the same 70 kg can end up two sizes apart.

A gentleman in a dark navy, almost black three-piece suit with a close-fitting waistcoat, showing how a dark single colour suits a man with a belly

Suits for Men With a Belly: 7 Cuts for a Neater Waistline

Suits for men with a belly: 7 cuts, from button position, lapels and front hem to high-rise trousers and braces, plus the colours and cloths worth choosing.

Trying on a pale blue basted suit jacket for an employee and adjusting the shoulder, a key step in choosing men's suit size between two sizes

Choosing Men's Suit Size Between Two Sizes: Up or Down?

Choosing men's suit size between two sizes: shoulders and chest first, what can and cannot be altered, alteration costs and when to go made-to-measure.

Two young men in a blue check suit and a grey suit, wearing bow ties, illustrating a youthful suit style close to the Korean-style suit

Korean-Style Suits: 6 Cut Features and Who Wears Them Well

A Korean-style suit shows in six features: shoulder, body, length, lapel, trousers, colour. How it compares with Italian and British cuts and how to adjust it.

Classic black one-button suit jacket, a slim one-button style for evening events and formal occasions

How Many Buttons on a Suit Jacket? 1, 2, 3 and Double-Breasted

How many buttons on a suit jacket? One, two, three and double-breasted compared by proportion, formality and build, with the buttoning rules and sleeve buttons.

Close-up of the shoulder and navy tonal-check cloth of a well-made men's suit jacket, with a flat, clean shoulder line

What Makes a Good Suit Jacket? 8 Criteria From a Master Tailor

What makes a good suit jacket? 8 master tailor criteria: shoulder, collar, lapel, chest, waist, hem, sleeve and finishing, plus a 60-second mirror test.

Close-up of a red tuxedo with black satin lapels, adjusting the cuff beside a Christmas tree, one small detail of wearing a suit properly

How to Wear a Suit Properly: 12 Small Rules Few Men Notice

How to wear a suit properly in 12 small rules: snip the vent and pocket stitching, remove the sleeve label, button correctly, show 1–1.5 cm of cuff, tie length.

Close-up of a burgundy suit lapel, navy tie and lily-shaped lapel pin, illustrating the details of a men’s suit

What Details Does a Men’s Suit Have? 20 Parts by Name

What are the parts of a men's suit? A 20-part map of jacket, trousers and waistcoat with Vietnamese and English names, from lapel to vent, to brief your tailor.

Measuring a sleeve in soft light, a yellow tape measure hanging down the body, illustrating how to measure a suit jacket

How to Measure a Suit Jacket You Own to Have It Remade to Fit

How to measure a suit jacket you already own to have it remade in the same fit: shoulder, chest, waist, length, sleeve, tolerances and online ordering.

Trying on a blue sample suit jacket to take accurate measurements, illustrating how to compare a men's suit jacket size chart with finished measurements

Men's Suit Jacket Size Chart: Finished Measurements by Size

Men's suit jacket size chart S to XXL: shoulder, chest, waist, length and sleeve, how to compare with a jacket that fits, and what to do between two sizes.

Distinguished gentleman in a grey suit and blue striped tie, standing tall in a made-to-measure suit for older men

Suits for Older Men: Comfortable, Well-Fitted, Easy to Wear

A suit for older men needs soft shoulders, roomy armholes, high-rise trousers and light, crease-resistant cloth. Mon Amie's master tailors show how to choose.

Father and son in white shirts and grey trousers with braces in front of a red Tet backdrop, an idea for a suit for dad

A Suit for Dad: Choose the Style, Take Measurements, Gift It

Choosing a suit for dad: measure from his old jacket, pick colours and styles that suit him, and give made-to-measure at home as a Father's Day gift.

Young man with glasses in a navy three-piece suit with black trim, an example of a first men's suit for a college student

Men's Suits for College Students: Choosing Your First One

A men's suit for college students: one navy suit for graduation, interviews and your first year at work. How to choose cut, style and cloth on a tight budget.

A navy checked waistcoat with pleated trousers, seated at ease beside a large window, an example of a men's waistcoat worn with a suit

How to Choose a Men's Waistcoat for a Suit: Cut, Buttons, Length

How to choose a men's waistcoat to wear with a suit: cover the waistband, match the V to the lapel, leave the last button open. A guide by body type and colour.

Navy suit with a double-breasted waistcoat, checked shirt and polka-dot tie: one of the classic men's waistcoat styles

Men's Waistcoat Styles: 10 Cuts to Wear With a Suit or Trousers

Men's waistcoat styles: single-breasted, double-breasted, lapelled, U-neck and vintage. Spot all 10 cuts, their formality, and how to match one to your suit.

Gold metallic suit jacket with black lapels and a gold bow tie, leaning on a doorframe, illustrating men's suit lapel styles

Top 7 Men's Suit Lapel Styles and When to Choose Each

Top 7 men's suit lapel styles: notch, slim notch, peak, double-breasted peak, shawl, rounded and contrast lapels. See which suits your build and the occasion.

Copper-brown made-to-measure suit with a bronze sheen, illustrating Korean, Italian, British and American men's suit cuts

Top 4 Men's Suit Cuts: Korean, Italian, British and American

Top 4 men's suit cuts: Korean, Italian, British and American differ in shoulders, waist and vents. See which build suits which cut before going made-to-measure.

Black-and-white photo of a gentleman leaning on a glass wall, hand buttoning his suit jacket, illustrating suit jacket button styles

Top 5 Suit Jacket Button Styles and How to Choose

Top 5 suit jacket button styles: single, two-button, 3-roll-2, double-breasted 4x2 and 6x2. How to button correctly and which suits your build and the occasion.

Sand-brown suit with a navy check and V-shaped lapels with patch pockets, illustrating men's suit pocket styles

Top 5 Men's Suit Jacket Pocket Styles

Top 5 men's suit pocket styles: flap, jetted, patch, slanted and ticket pockets. How to choose by build, occasion and the formality of your suit.

Black men's suit with peak lapels in a standing pose, illustrating the article on suit jacket vent styles

Top 5 Suit Jacket Vent Styles: Ventless, Centre and Side Vents

Top 5 suit jacket vent styles: ventless, centre vent, side vents, hacking vents and side slit. How to choose by seat, build and the way you sit and move.