Pick stitching is visible hand stitching worked along seams, lapel edges, pocket mouths or decorative details of a suit, both as an accent and as a mark of fine craftsmanship. For people in the trade, it is one of the first signs of how much skilled work has gone into a jacket. Mon Amie would like to show you how to read this small but telling detail.
What pick stitching is, and why it deserves attention
Look closely at the lapel edge of a carefully tailored suit and you will see a row of small, even stitches running parallel to the edge. That is pick stitching — each stitch taken through the cloth by hand, a few millimetres apart, forming a delicate dotted line.
Its value lies in the refinement it brings, the depth it adds to a garment and the skill it reveals in the tailor. In the world of tailoring it is a language of care, craft and character:
- Fine craftsmanship: patient hand stitching that shows the tailor's skill and discipline.
- An elegant accent: a soft line that draws the eye without showing off.
- Added value: a small detail that lifts the whole garment.
- Personal character: the stitch style, thread colour and placement reflect your own taste.
Why pick stitching matters on a tailored suit
It is no accident that long-established bespoke houses keep this technique alive even though machines can now imitate it. Pick stitching matters for many reasons:
- It gives a sense of luxury and shows the suit was made with care.
- It helps the garment hold its shape along curved edges — the hand stitches anchor cloth and canvas, letting the lapel edge roll softly instead of being pressed flat.
- It shows respect for the wearer and for the occasion.
- It belongs naturally to high-end tailoring and bespoke commissions.
- It carries a beauty that does not date.
- It is the choice of those who pursue perfection in every detail.
Six reasons connoisseurs value pick stitching
First, every stitch is evidence of the tailor's technique and experience — whether the line runs evenly tells you everything. Second, stitching that follows the lapel and the curves lets the jacket move smoothly and gracefully. Third, pick stitching anchors cloth and canvas together, so the jacket keeps a stable yet flexible form.
Fourth, the fine row of thread creates a subtle visual effect that highlights the structure and the cloth. Fifth, the detail suits every occasion: from the office to formal events, the suit always keeps its poise. Finally, hand stitching is strong, rarely unravels, and preserves the value of the jacket over time.
Where pick stitching appears on a suit
You will find pick stitching most clearly in these places:
- Lapel edge: the classic position, where the eye of the person opposite settles first.
- Pocket: the breast pocket and hip pockets, quietly outlined by hand stitching.
- Front edge: a line running down the front, following the curve of the skirt.
- Shoulder: some tailoring styles stitch along the shoulder seam.
- Collar: stitching around the collar stand helps it sit securely against the neck.
The marks of proper pick stitching
Not every visible row of thread is genuine pick stitching. A proper line has four qualities: hand-made stitches with a natural regularity no machine can fully reproduce; precise spacing, even from start to finish; a thread colour in harmony with the cloth, accenting rather than shouting; and a presence that is just enough — discreet, yet immediately recognisable to a trained eye.
Machine-imitated stitching, by contrast, is often too perfectly regular to feel alive, and sits flat on the surface of the cloth instead of settling slightly into the weave as a hand stitch does. That is the difference between decoration and craft.
A word from Mon Amie's artisans
In Mon Amie's workshop the tailors tell one another that a small stitch leaves a long impression. A beautiful row of pick stitching demands a steady hand, a sharp eye and patience across hundreds of stitches — there are no shortcuts. That is why every hand-stitched line along a lapel is the artisan's quiet signature to the man who will wear it.
If you would like to see pick stitching on our suits and choose the stitch style and thread colour that suit you, we invite you to visit one of Mon Amie's five showrooms in Ho Chi Minh City or call our hotline 0888.111.118. You can book an appointment for a personal consultation, or read more about Mon Amie's bespoke service.