Every new suit comes with a few small “surprises” that few tailors mention: the diagonal thread sewing the vent shut, the tacking stitches on the pocket openings, and sometimes even a small label still attached to the sleeve. Many men wear a suit for a whole year without knowing. That is why wearing a suit properly lies not in big matters like choosing colour or fabric, but in the twelve small details below. Do them all and you will look like a man whose suit the master tailor adjusted by hand.
Quick answer
Wearing a suit properly means getting twelve details right: cut the stitching on the vent and pocket openings, remove the sleeve label, button when standing and unbutton when sitting, show 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff, put nothing in the pockets, trousers resting on the top of the shoe, tie reaching the middle of the belt buckle, shoes matching the belt.
Three things to do before the first wear
1. Cut the stitching on the vent
On the back of the jacket you will often see an X of thread sewing the vent shut. It is there to keep the jacket flat in transit, not to stay forever. Use small scissors or a seam ripper to cut each stitch; do not yank. Once the vent opens, the jacket hangs in its true shape.
2. Cut the stitching on the pocket openings
The hip and chest pockets are also tacked shut. Cut the thread carefully and do not tear it by hand, which can rip the cloth. The chest pocket is usually used only for a pocket square, so you need not open it if you will not use it.
3. Remove the sleeve label
Some suits still have a woven label or a paper tab on the outside of the sleeve. Cut or remove it right before the first wear. Keep the label inside the collar and the fabric content label.
How to wear a suit properly: the jacket
4. Button when standing, unbutton when sitting
When standing, fasten the top button of a two-button jacket, the middle button of a three-button jacket, and always leave the bottom button open. When seated, unbutton everything so the jacket is not pulled into diagonal creases. Fasten it again when you stand up. For more detailed rules, see how to button a suit jacket.
5. Show 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff
The suit sleeve ends at the wrist bone, showing about 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff beneath. If the shirt sleeve is longer, it disappears into the jacket sleeve; if it is too short, a gap shows. This is the easiest sign of a man who wears a suit properly.
6. Show 1–1.5 cm of shirt collar above the jacket collar
The jacket collar sits about 1–1.5 cm lower than the shirt collar and hugs it closely, with no gap. If the jacket collar stands away from the neck or the shirt collar sinks out of sight, the jacket collar does not yet fit or the shirt collar is too low.
7. Put nothing in the pockets
The hip and chest pockets of a suit are there to keep the shape, not to carry things. A phone, wallet or keys make the jacket bulge, pull the shoulder out of line and crease the front. Keep your wallet and phone in the inside pocket, or use a bag.
8. Sleeves reaching the wrist bone
If the sleeve covers your whole hand, the jacket is too big; if it stops short at the forearm, the sleeve is too short. The right sleeve, when you let your arm hang straight, has its hem touching exactly the wrist bone. The sleeve is the easiest part to alter, so do not hesitate to ask the tailor to adjust it.
How to wear a suit properly: trousers and accessories
9. Trouser hem resting on the top of the shoe
The hem should touch the top of the shoe with a slight break (a half break). Too long and the trousers bunch up; too short and too much sock shows. If you choose a slim tapered cut, you can go without a break, with the hem just touching the top of the shoe.
10. Tie reaching the middle of the belt buckle
The tip of the tie ends at the middle of the belt buckle. Too short looks like a mistake; too long and it hangs below the waistband. The back blade of the tie is always shorter than the front.
11. Long socks, shoes the same colour as the belt
Socks should be long, over the calf, in the same tone as the trousers or shoes, so no skin shows when you sit down. Shoes and belt should match in colour and in shine. It is a detail that looks small but makes the whole outfit tidier.
12. Waistcoat: leave the last button open
With a three-piece suit, always leave the last button of the waistcoat open. The waistcoat covers the waistband but is shorter than the jacket. The tie sits inside the waistcoat and does not poke out below it.
The 12 rules at a glance
| No. | Rule | Quick check |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cut the vent stitching | The vent opens naturally |
| 2 | Cut the pocket stitching | The pocket openings open |
| 3 | Remove the sleeve label | Sleeve clear of labels |
| 4 | Button when standing, unbutton when sitting | Bottom button always open |
| 5 | Show shirt cuff | 1–1.5 cm |
| 6 | Show shirt collar | 1–1.5 cm, no gap |
| 7 | Nothing in the pockets | Jacket does not bulge |
| 8 | Sleeve to the wrist bone | Arm hanging, hem touches the bone |
| 9 | Trouser hem | Touches the top of the shoe |
| 10 | Tie | Middle of the belt buckle |
| 11 | Socks, shoes, belt | Same tone, long socks |
| 12 | Waistcoat | Last button open |
Common mistakes when wearing a suit
- Leaving the vent stitching in all year. The jacket pulls at the back and creases at the skirt.
- Buttoning every button. The jacket pulls into an X.
- Stuffing a wallet and phone into the hip pockets. The jacket loses its shape and the shoulders go off.
- Shirt sleeves longer than the jacket sleeves. Too much shirt sleeve pokes out, which looks untidy.
- A tie that is too short or too long. This is the mistake that hits the eye at once.
- Short socks. When you sit down, a strip of leg skin shows between the trouser hem and the sock.
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailor
Before leaving the house, stand in front of a mirror and adjust in this order: collar, sleeves, buttons, tie, shoes. Ten seconds is enough to catch most small mistakes. Shoulders cannot be altered, but the details above can be adjusted. An additional checklist on how well a jacket fits is in the article how a suit should fit: 10 checkpoints.
Frequently asked questions
What are the most basic parts of wearing a suit properly?
Three basics: a jacket that fits at the shoulder, buttoning by the rules (fasten when standing, unfasten when sitting, never the bottom button), and 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff showing. The other nine rules are finishing details.
Do you have to cut the stitching on the pockets of a suit jacket?
Yes, if you want to use the pockets. The tacking stitches keep the pocket openings flat in transit. Cut them carefully with small scissors, without yanking. The chest pocket is usually only for a pocket square, so you can leave it as it is if you will not use it.
What is the correct way for a man to wear a suit when sitting?
Unbutton the jacket before sitting and lift the back skirt lightly so that it is not crushed. When you stand up, button up again straight away. Sitting with the jacket fastened pulls it taut and creases it into an X.
How much shirt should show with a suit jacket?
About 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff shows below the edge of the jacket sleeve, and the shirt collar also shows about 1–1.5 cm above the jacket collar. This is the common standard in tailoring.
Can you wear a suit unbuttoned?
Yes, in many relaxed situations, such as walking, chatting or sitting. For formal occasions, you should button the jacket when standing. See when you can wear a suit unbuttoned.
Learn how to wear a suit from the experts
If your company wants its employees to understand and wear suits properly, Mon Amie's Dressing Etiquette workshop includes a hands-on session on choosing the cut, colour coordination and accessories right in class. For individuals, simply book a measuring appointment so that the master tailor can adjust the suit on you.