The same suit looks as if it stepped out of a magazine on a model nearly 1.9 metres tall, yet on you it looks as though you are borrowing someone else's jacket. It isn't that you wear it badly; it's that the European-style men's suit was cut for a different build. Once you understand where the difference lies, you will know what to adjust so the suit sits properly on your own shoulders.
The short answer
A European-cut suit is made for a tall frame with broad shoulders and a deep chest. To suit an average Vietnamese build, five points need adjusting: narrow the shoulder, reduce the chest width, set the waist at your true waist, shorten the jacket and sleeves, then recut the waistband and trouser legs. The shoulder is the hardest part to alter, so choose a jacket by its shoulder first.
Different builds, different cuts
In the experience of people in the trade, the average European build is usually taller, broader-shouldered, deeper-chested and longer-legged, so brands cut their patterns to those proportions. The average Vietnamese man usually has narrower shoulders, a slimmer chest and a lower overall height, so a suit cut to a European standard tends to show a few giveaways:
- The shoulder tip extends beyond your real shoulder tip.
- The chest is roomy and the jacket collar gaps away from the shirt collar when you stand straight.
- The body is long, covering almost the whole thigh.
- The sleeves run past the wrist, hiding the shirt cuffs completely.
- The trousers have a high waistband and wide legs, with the hem bunching up on the shoes.
These are only average tendencies. Everyone has a different build, so the most dependable answer remains measuring directly on the person.
Two common European schools: British and Italian
| Criterion | British style | Italian style |
|---|---|---|
| Shoulder | Structured, clearly padded, straight shoulder line | Soft, lightly padded, sleeve head gently gathered |
| Jacket body | Long, clearly nipped waist | Trim, light, airy |
| Cloth | Heavy wool, firm surface | Light wool, lighter colours |
| Rear vents | Double vents | Single vent or none |
| Feeling | Serious, dignified | Relaxed, elegant |
| Suits | Tall builds, formal occasions | Hot climates, slight builds |
Given the climate and the build common in Vietnam, the Italian spirit is usually easier to wear, while the British spirit fits when you need a dignified image for solemn occasions. Mon Amie's fabric library includes Italian and British mills such as Canonico, Vercelli, Holland Sherry, Dormeuil and Scabal, so you can choose cloth in either tradition.
Five points to adjust for a Vietnamese build
1. Shoulder
Narrow the shoulder width to fit your real shoulder, reduce the padding if your shoulders are balanced, or keep light padding if they slope slightly. A shoulder that juts out past your own is the most visible “fault” in clothes cut to a European standard.
2. Chest and body
Reduce the chest width so the jacket doesn't sag when you stand straight. If your chest is slim, avoid heavy cloth and overly stiff structure, which make the jacket balloon.
3. Waist
Place the waist suppression at your actual waist, not at the pattern's. Nip it enough for a clean torso, but without horizontal pulls across the stomach when buttoned.
4. Jacket and sleeve length
A jacket that covers the seat is the standard. Shorter men should choose a slightly shorter jacket so the legs look longer. The sleeve should reach the wrist bone, showing about 1 to 1.5 cm of shirt cuff.
5. Trousers
A moderate waistband, a rise that isn't too deep, straight or lightly tapered legs. The hem rests lightly on the shoe or shows a little of the shoe's ankle. European trousers with a high waist and wide legs often make shorter men look even shorter.
Lapels, buttons and colour: the subtler adjustments
- Lapels: tall men with broad shoulders suit lapels 8 to 9 cm wide; slighter men should bring them down to about 7 to 8 cm so they don't crowd the face.
- Button stance: shorter men should choose a slightly higher button stance to lengthen the legs.
- Colour: navy, charcoal and ash grey are safe tones and suit most skin colours.
- Pattern: a fine vertical pinstripe helps lengthen the figure. A large check suits taller men.
If you want to read more about the European sizing system, the article European men's suit size conversion has a comparison chart.
Five steps to check whether a European suit fits your shoulders
When trying on any suit, stand in front of a mirror and go through these in order:
- Look at the shoulder tip: the shoulder seam must sit at the outermost point of your shoulder bone, neither jutting out nor dropping inwards.
- Button up and look at the chest: the chest cloth is flat, not sagging, and not pulled into an X around the button.
- Let your arms hang straight: the jacket hem ends near your fingertips and covers the seat.
- Raise your arms forward: the jacket collar still hugs your neck and doesn't slide away from the shirt collar.
- Sit down: the jacket doesn't pull tight across the back and the trousers don't squeeze the thighs.
If it fails at step one, stop right there. The shoulder is the hardest part to alter; the master tailor can still deal with the remaining points to a certain extent.
Why made-to-measure gives the most accurate answer
Ready-to-wear suits can only divide builds into a handful of sizes. To get a good fit, you have to accept one place that is only “so-so”. With made-to-measure, each of the points above is adjusted independently, from the shoulder to the trouser hem. In the bespoke tailoring service, the artisan takes more than 30 measurements, keeps them on file for life and does a baste fitting, adjusting until the fit is right. You can review the steps on the made-to-measure process page.
A tip from Mon Amie's master tailor
The master tailor likes to say: “Borrow someone else's cut and you pay for it in awkwardness.” Don't try to look like the model in the catalogue. Take the spirit of the European style — the dignity of the British or the elegance of the Italian — then let the master tailor cut it to your build. Same cloth, same idea, but the measurements are yours, so the suit becomes yours. If you want to compare against the classic view, you can read classic men's suits: 9 details.
Common mistakes
- Buying a European-standard suit by height without looking at the shoulders.
- Keeping the sleeves long to look “smart”, when in fact it makes a shorter man look smaller.
- Choosing wide lapels when the shoulders and chest are small.
- Trying to wear the structured British style in harsh midday sun, ending up stiff and hot.
Frequently asked questions
What does a “stylish” men's suit mean?
It is a deliberate way of wearing a suit: the right cut, the right colour, consistent styling and restrained accessories. Style lies not in the most expensive suit but in the fit and the coherence.
Does a European-style men's jacket suit Vietnamese men?
Yes, if the shoulders, chest, jacket length and trousers are adjusted to the build. Buying the straight European cut usually ends up baggy.
Is it easier to wear the Italian or the British style?
The Italian style is light with a soft shoulder, easier to wear in hot weather. The British style holds its shape more firmly and suits formal occasions. Both can be made-to-measure.
Can shorter men wear European suits?
Yes, but choose a slightly shorter jacket, trousers with a moderate waistband, moderate lapels and a fine vertical pinstripe cloth to lengthen the figure.
Wear the European look with your own measurements
If you like the European spirit, bring a few favourite pictures to the showroom. The master tailor will show you which parts suit your build and which need adjusting. You can book through the booking page.