“When I sit down the jacket rides up, and when I stand the collar gaps away from my neck. Is that just what a suit for older men has to be like?” Mon Amie’s master tailors hear this question in the showroom so often they know it by heart. The short answer is no. A body past fifty is not the body it was at twenty-five, and a jacket only needs to be cut for that body rather than for a size chart.
The short answer
A suit for older men should have a comfortable cut that is close to the body without being tight, soft shoulders, a little more room in the armholes and chest than usual for easy movement, high-rise pleated trousers, and light wool or a lightweight crease-resistant blend, in navy or charcoal. Most important of all, be measured standing naturally, so the tailor can adjust to the wearer’s real back, shoulders and stomach.
Why ready-to-wear often feels uncomfortable for older men
Ready-to-wear sizes are built for an “average” figure: level shoulders, a straight back, a flat stomach. Over the years a body changes in very individual ways:
- The shoulders slope more, so the shoulder of an off-the-rack jacket sticks out and leaves a hollow beneath it.
- The back curves slightly forward, so the collar is pulled backward and gaps away from the neck.
- The stomach fills out, so the fronts are pushed open, the buttons strain and the trousers slip below the belly.
- Raised arms are no longer as supple as they once were, and a jacket that is tight in the armhole feels like being “tied up” all day.
Each small change is insignificant on its own. Added together, they turn a suit that looks lovely on a mannequin into one that feels wrong on a real person. That is why, for older men, made-to-measure almost always gives a better result than buying off the rack.
5 adjustments that make a suit for older men easier to wear
1. Soft shoulders, light padding. Heavy padding gives a crisp, square line that looks good on a younger man, but on shoulders that have sloped it feels heavy on the neck. Choose a soft shoulder or very light padding, so the shoulder line follows the natural shoulder bone.
2. A collar that hugs the neck even when the back is slightly rounded. This is a detail the master tailor must handle in the back panel and the collar position. A simple test: standing upright, the jacket collar should rest against the shirt collar with no gap.
3. A little more room in the armholes and chest. A jacket that fits well does not mean a jacket that fits tight. Leave just enough room at the armhole and chest so you can raise your arms, drive, or bend forward to shake hands without the jacket riding up with you.
4. Easy buttoning, fronts that hang straight. Wider buttonholes, buttons that are not too small, and a button position at the natural waist, so the two fronts close flat instead of springing open in a V. A single-breasted two-button jacket is the safest choice.
5. A length that covers the seat. A jacket that is too short makes the stomach more obvious, whereas one that covers the seat creates a clean vertical line that makes the figure look taller and fuller.
Trousers: a high rise and pleats are two good friends
Many older men complain about their trousers more than their jackets: they slip below the belly, strain when sitting and crease when standing. The tailor’s solution is very simple:
- A high rise sitting at the navel, just above the natural waist. The belly is not cut across by the waistband, and the trousers do not slip.
- Pleats (one or two) for roomy thighs and seat when sitting, and to help the legs hang straight.
- Side adjusters or buttons for braces, rather than relying entirely on a belt.
- A straight leg, not a tight one, with a hem that just touches the shoe so the cloth does not bunch.
Cloth: light, crease-resistant, breathable
Ho Chi Minh City’s climate calls for thin, light cloth, but cloth that is too thin creases quickly and loses its shape after a few hours of sitting. Older men should favour light wool, or wool blends with good crease recovery, with a matt surface that is not too shiny.
| Mon Amie cloth line | Material | Suited to |
|---|---|---|
| Essential (VND 4.8 – 10 million) | Kevinlli 40–70% wool, 100s–140s | Work and everyday gatherings, where durability and low creasing matter |
| Signature (VND 10 – 20 million) | Kevinlli 80–100% wool 140s–150s, Dolce & Taylor, Luciano, Salford, Vercelli | Important occasions, fine cloth with a graceful drape |
| Heritage (over VND 20 million) | Canonico, Holland Sherry, Dormeuil, Scabal | Major ceremonies, longevity celebrations, a suit meant to last a lifetime |
You can feel the fabrics for yourself in the Mon Amie fabric library, or ask an artisan to bring swatches to your home.
Colour: what to choose in middle age
- Navy: the all-rounder, it brightens the complexion and works for the office and for parties alike.
- Charcoal grey: sober and solid, it suits a fuller figure because it gives a trimmer look.
- Black: for formal ceremonies such as funerals, a child’s wedding and other rites.
- Light grey: gentle for daytime, and looks its best on fair skin.
- Subtle stripes (pinstripe, chalk stripe): vertical stripes lengthen the figure, and suit middle-aged men who have filled out very well.
Avoid large checks and colours that are too bright or loud, because they emphasise the torso rather than helping the figure stand tall. For more, the article on suit colours for older men has a detailed pairing chart for each occasion.
Tips from Mon Amie’s master tailors
When trying on a jacket, do three movements: sit on a chair, raise both arms to shoulder height, then fold your arms across your chest. A suit that passes all three without pulling or pinching is a suit you can wear all day. In addition:
- Stand relaxed when you are measured, and do not puff out your chest as if for a photograph. The tailor needs the measurements of the posture you hold every day.
- Try the jacket on with the shoes and belt you usually wear, and put your wallet and phone in the pockets as you would when out.
- If getting around is difficult, choose made-to-measure at home: the artisan comes to you, and measures and fits in familiar surroundings.
Common mistakes
- Choosing a larger size “for comfort”. Baggy shoulders and chest make the wearer look sloppy and older than he is. Comfort comes from the right cut, not from spare cloth.
- Choosing too tight a fit to look younger. A close-fitting jacket on a fuller body creases across the stomach and binds at the armhole.
- Choosing shiny or stiff cloth. It picks up dust quickly, runs hot and adds to the feeling of heaviness.
- Overlooking the lining. A cool lining that wicks away sweat makes a long day much less trying.
Frequently asked questions
What colour suit should an older man choose?
Navy and charcoal are the two safest colours, suitable for work, parties or longevity celebrations. Black is for very formal ceremonies. Avoid colours that are too bright and large patterns.
Should a middle-aged man’s suit be single-breasted or double-breasted?
A single-breasted jacket with two buttons is the easiest to wear and does the most to disguise a stomach. Double-breasted needs a well-proportioned figure, so choose it only once you have tried it on and truly feel it suits you.
How should a man with a stomach wear a suit for older men?
Choose high-rise pleated trousers, a jacket long enough to cover the seat, straight fronts and a button at the natural waist. Dark colours, cloth that holds its shape and subtle vertical stripes will make the overall look neater.
Made-to-measure or ready-to-wear for a middle-aged man’s suit?
With sloping shoulders, a rounded back or a fuller stomach, made-to-measure is almost always better, because the tailor adjusts every point directly. Mon Amie takes more than 30 measurements and keeps them for life, so later additions are very quick.
In closing
A suit that is right for an older man is not the most expensive one, but the one that makes the wearer forget he is wearing a suit. If you would like to try one, look at the made-to-measure price list to choose a cloth line, or visit one of our five showrooms so an artisan can measure you and advise. The article on suits for middle-aged men is also a good place to start if you want to read more before deciding.