Many men blame the cloth when a suit jacket looks scruffy, or blame their own build. Most of the time the cloth is not at fault and neither is the body: the fault lies in the fit. Each suit jacket fit problem below has a name, a cause and a remedy, or a straight word that it cannot be fixed and has to be remade from scratch.
Quick answer
The five most common suit jacket fit problems are: diagonal or protruding shoulders, a collar gap, X-shaped creases around the button, sleeves that are too long or twisted, and a front that flares or bunches. Sleeves, body and hem are fairly easy to alter; the collar is conditional; the shoulder is the hard one, so correct it at the baste fitting.
1. Diagonal wrinkles or protruding shoulders: the root of every fit problem
The shoulder is the structural part of a suit jacket; everything else hangs from it. If the shoulder is too wide, the shoulder seam sticks out past the shoulder point, pulling the sleeve down and making the lapel gape. If it is too tight, diagonal wrinkles run from the collar to the shoulder, and when you raise your arm the whole body of the jacket is dragged up with it. The cause is usually a wrong shoulder measurement, or sloping or square shoulders that a ready-to-wear suit does not account for.
The fix: the shoulder is the hard and costly part, because the tailor must detach the sleeve, adjust the shoulder padding and reattach it; it is only worth doing when the cloth and seams are still in very good condition. With a made-to-measure suit, the shoulder is adjusted right at the baste fitting, when the cloth is not yet permanently stitched. That is why Mon Amie takes more than 30 measurements: the shoulder, armhole and back need to be seen as one block.
2. Collar gap: the space between the suit jacket and the shirt collar
A collar gap is when the jacket collar doesn't hug the shirt collar and instead lifts away at the nape, leaving a gap clearly visible from the side. Common causes are a slightly hunched or arched back, sloping shoulders, or a collar curve cut that doesn't match where the neck sits. A shirt collar that is too low makes the gap more obvious, so check the shirt before blaming the jacket.
The fix: the tailor can adjust the neckline and back of the jacket at the centre back near the nape, which is usually possible if there is spare cloth there. Most of this is corrected at the fitting, when the tailor stands behind you and watches how the collar falls. The article What is a collar gap analyses each cause and the way to correct it.
3. X-shaped creases around the button: the jacket crying out for room
When the jacket is buttoned, creases radiating from the button in an X shape are a sign that the body is tight at the waist or stomach and the cloth is being stretched around the button. X creases often appear after some weight gain, or when the jacket was cut too close to the body to "look neat". The fix: if the side or back seam allowance remains, the tailor lets it out by a couple of centimetres and that is that. If there is no allowance left, the jacket cannot be let out and must be remade. Prevent it from the start: try the jacket buttoned, standing, sitting, breathing in, and don't put a wallet or phone in the pockets before trying, because they make the jacket tighter.
4. Sleeves that are too long, too short or twisted
A standard suit sleeve shows about one to one and a half centimetres of shirt cuff when the arm hangs down. Too long and it covers the shirt entirely and the jacket looks oversized; too short and the wrist is left exposed. A twisted sleeve, meaning creases that run around the arm instead of hanging straight, is usually caused by the sleeve being set off-axis at the armhole or the sleeve line not matching the arm's natural posture.
The fix: shortening from the cuff is fairly easy if the cuff buttons are purely decorative; if the cuff buttons really open, it is harder because the opening has to be kept. A twisted sleeve needs correcting at the armhole, so the tailor must detach the sleeve and rotate it. More on length and structure is in the standard suit sleeve.
5. Flaring or bunching front at the hip
A flaring front is when the two front panels kick outward instead of closing straight, as if the jacket were "flaring" around the hips; the cause is usually a jacket that is too tight at the hips or the chest. Bunching is when the cloth folds into creases at the sides, because the body is too loose at the hips or too short for the seat measurement. Jacket length matters too: a standard suit jacket covers the seat and the hem falls about at the knuckles when the arms hang down.
The fix: shortening or taking in the front is fairly easy because those are outer seams; letting out the hips is harder because it depends on the seam allowance. A showroom rule of thumb: if you button the jacket and the front still kicks out, it almost certainly needs the hips let out or a larger size.
Quick summary table
| Problem | Sign | Fixable? |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Diagonal wrinkles, protruding shoulders | Diagonal creases from collar to shoulder; shoulder seam sticks out | Hard; should be corrected from the baste fitting |
| 2. Collar gap | A gap at the nape seen from the side | Possible if there is spare cloth at the back and collar |
| 3. X creases around the button | Creases radiating from the button when fastened | Can be let out if seam allowance remains |
| 4. Sleeves long, short or twisted | Too much or too little shirt cuff showing; creases around the sleeve | Shortening is easy; fixing a twist means detaching the sleeve |
| 5. Flaring, bunching front | Fronts kick out or fold at the sides | Taking in the front is easy; letting out the hips is hard |
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
- Try the jacket on with the very shirt you will wear, stand straight, raise your arms, sit down; fit problems only show fully when the jacket "works".
- Photograph the back of the jacket with your phone: the back and collar, which you can't see yourself, are often where the fault is.
- A fault found at the baste fitting is many times cheaper than one found after the jacket is finished; say plainly everywhere you feel any snag.
- Don't have the shoulders altered on a ready-to-wear suit if the cost is close to that of a new made-to-measure suit.
- Machine washing or stuffing a jacket into a tight suitcase also ruins the fit; see how to wash a suit at home.
Frequently asked questions
How do I fold a pocket square neatly?
There are two familiar styles. The square fold: fold the cloth in half, then in thirds, and let the flat edge rise about one to one and a half centimetres above the pocket opening. The puff: pinch the middle of the cloth, pull it down so the corners spread naturally, and tuck it lightly into the pocket. The square fold suits formal occasions; the puff suits parties and meeting friends.
Can a ready-to-wear suit jacket be altered to fit like a made-to-measure one?
The sleeves, body, front and length can be altered. The shoulder and collar are harder because they are structural. So, with a ready-to-wear suit, choose the size that fits the shoulders first and then alter the rest.
Can a jacket whose fit was damaged by washing be repaired?
Machine washing or washing incorrectly can shrink the canvas, warp the lapels and crease the cloth. Warped lapels can usually be pressed back with steam; a damaged canvas has to be redone. Have it dry-cleaned or hand wash it gently following the cloth's instructions.
Does a suit look bad because of your build?
Rarely. Any build can wear a suit well if the jacket is cut correctly for that body. The article why suits look bad: 10 fit mistakes lists more fit faults you can spot at a glance.
Conclusion
Knowing the name of the suit jacket fit problem is half of the fix. You can bring the jacket you are unsure about to the showroom for the master tailor to look at, or book a made-to-measure session so that every point above is corrected from the baste fitting; the bespoke tailoring service includes more than 30 measurements and baste fittings adjusted until the fit is right.