Cashmere sounds so luxurious that many people assume those three words on a fabric label automatically make a suit worth more. In practice it is the other way round: more cashmere does not mean better for a suit you wear every day. Wool cashmere fabric (wool blended with the soft fibre of the cashmere goat) can be superb, but only when the blend is moderate and the cloth is woven properly; go too far and it pills easily and wears out fast.
Quick answer
Wool cashmere is wool cloth blended with the soft undercoat fibre of the cashmere goat. For a suit, the blend that is worth the money is usually 5 to 15% cashmere: the cloth is softer, warmer and drapes beautifully while staying durable enough. Above 20%, or pure cashmere, it pills easily and suits an overcoat better than a work suit.
What cashmere is
Cashmere is the fine down that grows in the undercoat of the cashmere goat, raised mainly in cold, high mountain regions. Each goat yields only a small amount a year, and the fibre has to be separated from the coarse outer hair, so cashmere ranks among the expensive raw materials of the textile trade. Cashmere fibre is very fine, finer even than ordinary sheep's wool, so it feels soft and light to the touch and keeps you warm.
Wool (sheep's wool) is the opposite: a slightly coarser fibre that is elastic, durable, resists creasing well and is the backbone of most high-end suits. Blending the two fibres combines the durability of wool with the softness of cashmere.
Why blend cashmere into wool
For a suit, a cashmere blend brings three easily noticed benefits:
- Soft. The surface of the cloth is smoother to the touch, and it feels “gentle” against the skin and the shirt when worn.
- Drapes well. The cloth falls along the body more softly, with fewer stiff corners, especially at the shoulder and lapel.
- Warm and refined. The cloth has a soft matte sheen and deeper colour; you can tell it is a good material even without a logo.
But there is a trade-off: cashmere is a short fibre, so when it is blended in heavily the cloth pills more readily in places that rub (underarms, elbows, inner thighs, trouser waistband), stretches easily and is less durable than pure wool.
Which blend ratio is worth it
The table below gives commonly used reference levels in the trade; results can differ depending on the fibre and the weave.
| Cashmere share | Feel | Durability | Suited to | Worth it? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0% (pure wool) | Firm, defined shape | Very good | Everyday work suit | The foundation choice |
| 5 to 10% | Noticeably softer | Almost the same as pure wool | Suits and blazers for work, evening events | The sweet spot for a suit |
| 10 to 15% | Soft, warm, refined | Good with proper care | Blazers, suits for occasions | Worth it for a suit you want to “invest in” |
| 20 to 30% | Very soft | Starts to pill, wears quickly | Overcoats, blazers worn occasionally | Only if feel is your priority |
| 100% | Maximum smoothness | Weak for a suit, stretches easily | Overcoats, outerwear | Not suited to a work suit |
In short: if you are having a suit made to wear regularly, don't chase a high percentage. Around 5 to 15% cashmere in a fine wool base is where softness and durability meet.
What the yarn numbers (Super 100s, 120s, 150s) tell you
Besides the cashmere percentage, you will see numbers such as 100s, 120s and 150s on the fabric label. The higher the number, the finer the fibre and the softer and lighter the cloth, but the more easily it creases and the less durable it is. A suit in wool 140s to 150s blended with cashmere is very soft, while wool 100s to 120s is more durable and holds its shape better. So don't equate a “high number” with “the ideal”; choose according to how you wear it.
Wool cashmere in Vietnam: which season suits it
Ho Chi Minh City is hot and humid all year round, so wool cashmere fabric is not a natural choice for outdoors at midday. But if you sort it by the situation of use, you will see it still has its place:
- Air-conditioned offices, chilly meeting rooms: comfortable to wear all day.
- Rainy season, cooler days: warm enough without being heavy.
- Đà Lạt, Hà Nội in the cold season, business trips abroad: this is where cashmere shows all its advantages.
- Not suited: outdoor parties in the midday sun, long motorbike rides. For these two, choose a light, breathable wool or a linen blend.
Caring for cashmere blends so they last
- Hang on a wide-shouldered hanger, don't fold.
- Let the jacket rest at least one day between wears, so the fibres can recover.
- Brush with a soft-bristle brush along the grain of the cloth rather than washing often. Have it professionally dry-cleaned only when truly needed.
- Avoid continuous rubbing: a heavy backpack on the shoulder, sitting on rough surfaces and a cross-body bag all cause pilling.
- Remove pills early with small scissors or a dedicated fabric shaver, don't pull them off by hand.
Common mistakes when choosing a cashmere blend
- Looking only at the “cashmere” label without asking the percentage. Two suits both labelled cashmere can differ by as much as ten percent of fibre.
- Choosing pure cashmere for a work suit. It stretches at the elbows, knees and seat after only a short time.
- Believing a high price means high quality. You need to look at the mill, the yarn count, the weave and how the cloth feels to the touch.
- Choosing cloth that is too light in order to be “soft”. Cloth that is too thin creases as soon as you sit in a car for a short trip.
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
- Feel the cloth with the back of your hand or your wrist, where the skin is more sensitive than the palm, and crumple the cloth lightly in your palm then let go: good cloth will spring back flat on its own.
- With cashmere blends, master tailors usually advise keeping a light lining and compact interfacing so that the jacket does not feel heavy.
- If you are not sure, start with one good wool suit, then keep cashmere for a blazer or a suit for special occasions.
- To read the basics of wool cloth, see the articles is wool fabric good and what is wool blend fabric.
Frequently asked questions
What is wool cashmere fabric?
It is wool cloth blended with cashmere fibre taken from the soft undercoat of the cashmere goat. Wool gives durability and shape; cashmere gives softness and warmth. A sensible blend for a suit usually falls in the range of 5 to 15% cashmere.
How is wool and cashmere different from pure cashmere?
“Wool and cashmere” is a blend of the two fibres, more durable and better at holding its shape. Pure cashmere is the smoothest but stretches and pills easily, and is used more for sweaters, scarves and outerwear than for a suit worn every day.
Is wool cashmere suitable for Ho Chi Minh City's weather?
It suits air-conditioned rooms, cool rainy-season days or when you travel somewhere cold. For hot, humid outdoors, choose a light wool or a breathable blend.
How much does a cashmere-blend suit cost?
Price depends on the mill and the cloth code. Mon Amie has three made-to-measure lines: Essential VND 4.8 – 10 million, Signature VND 10 – 20 million, and Heritage over VND 20 million (up to VND 60 million per suit), with mills such as Canonico, Holland Sherry, Dormeuil and Scabal. You can ask a stylist which codes currently include cashmere.
In short
Cashmere is a seasoning, not the main ingredient. If you would like to touch each material before deciding, visit Mon Amie's fabric library or look at the made-to-measure price list to see where each fabric line sits, then book a measuring appointment so that a stylist can put real fabric swatches in your hands.