Customers preparing for a business trip to Hanoi or Da Lat often ask the same question: “Can the light suit I wear all year round do for the cold season?” The answer is usually half yes. A winter suit is not only thicker; it also differs in fabric, in how it is layered and in fit. Done right, you are both warm and elegant, without having to hug a puffer jacket on top of your suit.
Quick answer
A winter suit should use heavier-weight wool in deeper colors such as charcoal, deep navy or brown, be worn in thin layers rather than one thick layer, and be made with a fit that leaves room for the layers underneath.
Choosing fabric for a winter suit
- Substantial wool. Wool gives warmth and good shape retention, while still breathing better than many synthetic materials.
- Flannel. A smooth, slightly brushed surface that looks warm at a glance and feels very soft to wear.
- Tweed. A coarse, textured surface suited to a relaxed, weekend style.
- Wool-cashmere blend. Softer and warmer, suited to a suit for important occasions.
Mon Amie's fabric library has many kinds of wool. You can browse the fabric library and ask your stylist to point out a weight that suits the climate where you are going. To know the budget first, see the three price tiers on the price list page.
Layering without bulk
- Base layer: a thin cotton or flannel shirt.
- Middle layer: a thin V-neck or turtleneck sweater, or a knit waistcoat. Avoid thick sweaters because they make the suit bulge and restrict the arms.
- Outer layer: the suit jacket, and over it a wool coat that falls below the knee if needed.
- Accessories: a wool scarf, leather gloves, wool socks.
A simple rule: the closer to the skin, the thinner the layer. The shirt collar should still show above the sweater to keep a polished look.
Colors and patterns
- Charcoal, deep navy, chocolate brown, moss green. Deeper shades suit the cold season well.
- Fine checks or houndstooth. A subtle pattern makes a heavy suit feel less ponderous.
- Avoid very pale colors. Light colors and thick fabric make the wearer look wider.
When being measured, tell your stylist this
Say clearly that you will wear a sweater or waistcoat underneath. The master tailor will leave room at the shoulders, chest and sleeves, so that with all the layers on the suit still does not feel tight. If you only try it on over a thin shirt and then put a sweater on, the suit is usually tight at the armholes and hard to move in. At the showroom, you can bring the sweater you wear most to try on together.
Common mistakes
- Wearing a thick sweater under a suit cut to fit snugly. The jacket is tight and the shoulders crease.
- Forgetting shoes. Thin leather shoes with a heavy suit look unbalanced. Choose leather shoes with a thicker sole, in brown or black.
- Dry cleaning constantly. Wool fabric needs to be brushed and hung to rest; dry clean only when really needed.
An invitation from Mon Amie
An upcoming cold-weather trip, or the cold season in your city, is a good reason to have one more suit made in heavy wool. Book an appointment so a stylist can measure and advise you, or browse the lookbook for styling ideas.