If a suit is a story, the breast pocket is the full stop. It is small and sits to one side, but the other person's eyes always sweep across it. An empty breast pocket looks fine. A breast pocket stuffed with a pen and phone ruins the line of the shoulder. And a well-folded pocket square gives the whole outfit more life. Here are 8 tips for styling the breast pocket that Mon Amie's master tailors often show customers.
Quick answer
For a good breast pocket: choose a pocket square in a matching tone rather than one identical to the tie, fold it flat for formal occasions or in a puff fold for relaxed ones, show only about 1 to 2 cm above the pocket opening, and never put objects in the breast pocket.
8 tips for a neater breast pocket
1. Same tone, not the same set
A pocket square and tie that are identical look like they were bought as a set. Choose a square with one color that matches the tie or shirt but with a different pattern. That way you have harmony without looking like you tried.
2. Material for the occasion
Silk for evening parties and weddings. Cotton or linen for work and weekends. Thin wool for the cold season. A square that is too glossy against a matte suit will be out of tune.
3. Choose the right size
A pocket square is usually a square with sides of about 30 to 33 cm. One that is too large will bulge once folded; one that is too small will slip down into the pocket.
4. Fold flat for formal occasions
Fold in half, then in half again, and let the straight edge sit level with the pocket opening. This fold is neat and serious, suited to board meetings, signing ceremonies and formal weddings.
5. One-point fold for a light accent
Fold into a triangle and tuck it in so one corner stands up. This fold is both polite and a little playful, very suitable for a suit in a simple color.
6. Puff fold for relaxed occasions
Hold the square at its center, pull it through your fingers and drop it into the pocket, letting the top billow naturally. The puff suits light parties, weekends and light-colored suits.
7. Show only about 1 to 2 cm
A square sticking up too high looks like it is showing off. One that shows too little loses its point. Try it in front of the mirror, bend and sit down to see whether it slips or shifts.
8. Keep the breast pocket flat
Phones, pens and wallets belong in the inside pocket or trouser pocket. The breast pocket is designed to stay upright and not carry heavy items. Putting things in it pulls the front of the jacket out of line at once.
Common mistakes
- Folding too elaborately, so the square looks like a cloth flower.
- Using a rumpled square. Press it lightly before you go out.
- Choosing a square and tie that both have large patterns, so the two compete for attention.
Pocket squares and the made-to-measure pocket
The breast pocket of a made-to-measure suit can be adjusted in height and angle to the wearer's build, so the square sits more neatly. For a groom, the pocket square is also an accessory coordinated with the tie or bow tie in the groom styling service. You can see pairings in the lookbook before choosing.
An invitation from Mon Amie
Next time you visit a showroom, bring along the square you already have. A stylist will try a few of the folds above on your suit. If you need to choose more accessories, you can book an appointment or see the price list first.