Wedding photos are looked at again for decades, and people notice a groom's suit in the smallest details: whether the shoulders lie flat, whether the sleeves hide the wrists, whether the back of the jacket wrinkles when he raises an arm for a photo. This article is about wedding suit fit, the points a master tailor checks when fitting a groom.
Quick answer
A wedding suit with a proper fit has shoulders sitting exactly at the shoulder point, a chest that is not pulled into creases when buttoned, sleeves that show about 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff, a jacket that covers most of the seat and trouser hems that rest lightly on the instep of the shoes. The surest way to get there is to have the suit made to measure and to have a baste fitting before the wedding day.
Five checks when fitting a wedding suit
- Shoulders. The shoulder seam sits exactly at the point of your shoulder, neither sticking out beyond it nor slipping inward. This is the hardest part to alter, so settle the shoulders first.
- Chest and waist. Button up and stand straight. If the body of the jacket pulls into an X shape around the button, the jacket is too tight. If the front panels bulge outward, it is too loose.
- Sleeves. With your arms hanging naturally, the sleeve ends around the wrist bone and shows about 1–1.5 cm of the shirt underneath, creating a clean line of light in photos.
- Jacket length. The jacket should cover most of the seat. Too short and you look rough; too long and your figure looks shorter.
- Trousers. The waistband sits at the waist without needing to be cinched tight. The hems rest lightly on the instep of the shoes, with a very small break or none at all, depending on style.
The fit for a photo is not the fit for the whole wedding day
A groom does not simply stand still. You will raise your arms to greet the bride, bow, lift a glass, get into a car, and perhaps even dance. When you try the suit on, try those movements too:
- Sit down with the jacket buttoned: the jacket should not strain or bind across the stomach.
- Raise both arms to shoulder height: the jacket collar should not ride up off the shirt collar.
- Reach your arms forward: the back of the jacket should not wrinkle into horizontal creases.
Bring along the shirt and shoes you plan to wear on the wedding day: just switching to shoes with a thicker sole is enough to throw off the trouser length. With a made-to-measure suit, each detail is worked out for your body instead of applying a standard size, so the wedding suit fit is easier to achieve than with ready-to-wear.
Planning fittings backward from the wedding day
A wedding suit should be scheduled backward from the wedding date: enough room for the measuring, the baste fitting and a final adjustment. The showroom will give you the specific schedule at the time of measuring. In the weeks before the wedding, keep your weight stable and do not diet too harshly, because large changes in weight will throw off a fit that has already been settled.
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
- Settle the shoulders first; the other parts can still be adjusted lightly.
- Fit the suit in the afternoon, when your body is as it is after a day of standing, walking and sitting.
- Say plainly what feels restrictive. The wearer is the one who feels it most clearly.
Rent or made to measure?
Mon Amie currently offers suit rental by occasion at the showroom: you try on your size in person and keep the suit you like, with the rental price quoted by style when you get in touch. If you want every detail to fit exactly for the big day, made-to-measure is still the surest choice. See the groom styling service, choose cloth in the fabric library and find inspiration in the lookbook.
Frequently asked questions
How long before the wedding should I have the suit made?
Earlier than you think, so there is time for the baste fitting and adjustments. The showroom will give you the specific schedule at the time of measuring.
Should a wedding suit be fitted or loose?
A close but comfortable fit looks most flattering: trim enough for a straight line, comfortable enough to raise your arms, sit and hold the bride without the jacket straining.
An invitation from Mon Amie
A good-looking wedding suit begins at the first measuring session. Book an appointment to meet a stylist, or see the price list before coming to the showroom.