In the showroom there is one question every groom asks sooner or later: "With a body like mine, will a wedding suit look good?" The answer is almost always yes, provided the suit is chosen and measured for your build. The same suit on two different men can give two completely different results. This article helps you choose a groom suit that flatters your body type.
Quick answer
A suit flatters when the shoulders sit exactly on the shoulder point, the waist is fitted just right, the jacket length suits your height, and the color and pattern suit your build. Slim men should choose cloth with some body, heavier men dark colors and vertical lines, shorter men a neat shorter jacket, and taller men a slightly longer jacket.
General principles for every build
- Shoulders first, then everything else. The shoulders are almost impossible to alter, so the jacket must fit there from the start.
- Fitted, not tight, not loose. A loose jacket makes you look bigger; a tight one shows every crease.
- Jacket length covering the seat, keeping the proportion of long legs.
- Trouser hem touching the shoes with a slight break.
Suggestions by body type
| Body type | What to choose | What to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Slim | Substantial cloth, lightly padded shoulders, horizontal stripes or small checks, double-breasted | An overly loose jacket, dark color from head to toe |
| Heavy, with a belly | Dark colors, single-breasted, medium lapels, slightly higher-rise trousers | Large patterns, a jacket tight across the belly |
| Short | A neat shorter jacket, small-to-medium lapels, one color from jacket to trousers | A long jacket, trousers that pool at the shoe, oversized lapels |
| Tall | A slightly longer jacket, double-breasted, bold stripes or large checks | A jacket that is too short, short trouser legs |
| Broad shoulders, full chest | Truly trim shoulders, a waist fitted just right, medium notch lapels | Too much shoulder padding |
Slim build
The goal is to create a fuller look. Moderately thick wool gives the suit structure, lightly padded shoulders, and horizontal stripes or small checks make the torso look broader. Avoid a jacket that is too loose, because it only makes a slim frame more obvious.
Heavy build
Dark colors such as navy or charcoal, a single-breasted jacket and medium-width lapels draw the eye vertically. Do not choose a jacket that is tight across the belly, because the button will be pulled into an X-shaped crease. A slightly higher trouser rise helps the torso look neater.
Short build
Keep the jacket and trousers in the same color family so the eye reads one continuous line. A neat shorter jacket, small-to-medium lapels and trim trouser legs will make your height look longer. Avoid trousers that are too long and drag onto the shoes.
Tall build
Taller men can wear a slightly longer jacket and double-breasted buttoning. Bold stripes or large checks suit a tall frame, but do not let the sleeves and trouser legs run short.
Color and pattern
Navy and charcoal suit most body types. Light colors look fuller, dark colors look trimmer. Choose patterns with your build in mind, as in the table above. You can see the cloths in the fabric library.
Why made-to-measure flatters more
Ready-to-wear is the average of many people. Made-to-measure is exactly one person. In the showroom, the master tailor takes more than 30 measurements, does a baste fitting and adjusts the shoulders, waist and length until they fit. See also the groom suit service and the price list.
Frequently asked questions
Will a slim man get lost in a wedding suit?
No, as long as the jacket is measured correctly at the shoulders and waist and the cloth is thick enough to hold its shape.
Does a heavier man need a double-breasted suit?
Usually a heavier man suits single-breasted better, because there is less detail on the body of the jacket.
What if I do not know what suits me?
Come in and let a stylist look at you in person and try a few styles.
An invitation from Mon Amie
The suit that flatters most is the one measured for your own body. Book an appointment and Mon Amie will advise on the cut, the cloth and the accessories for your wedding day.