A bow tie is only about 5–6 cm wide, yet it sits exactly in the centre of the frame: under the chin, above the row of buttons, where the eye stops first. Choose the wrong one of the men's bow tie styles and the whole tuxedo loses points; choose the right one and even a familiar black suit gains its own presence. The five styles below differ in shape, width and material, and each suits a particular face and occasion.
The short answer
The five men's bow tie styles for a tuxedo are the butterfly, the batwing, the diamond point, the velvet or colour-matched bow tie, and the rhinestone or white bow tie for the stage. For correct formality choose a black butterfly; for a slim face and long neck choose a batwing; the other three are for the man who wants an accent.
1. Butterfly bow tie: the standard shape of the tuxedo
The butterfly bow tie has two wings that flare gradually towards the ends, about 5–6 cm wide at the broad part of the wings. It is the shape most people picture when they hear the words "tuxedo bow tie". The wide version balances well with a square or full face and a thick neck, because the proportion between bow tie and face is harmonious.
The standard material is black satin or grosgrain (ribbed silk). The rule of the trade is clear: the bow tie material matches the lapel; satin lapels take a satin bow tie, grosgrain lapels a grosgrain one; with different materials the sheen differs and a keen eye sees it at once. The two ends of the bow tie should not extend beyond the cheekbones when you look straight on, and the bow tie should not cover the whole shirt collar.
2. Batwing bow tie: slim, straight lines, for a lean face
The batwing has straight edges and two wings of nearly even width rather than flaring out, a slim band of about 4–5 cm. It is as neat as a horizontal line under the chin, so it suits a man with a slender face, a long neck and narrow shoulders, and a tuxedo cut close with narrow lapels.
Do not choose the batwing if you have a large face or a full neck: a slim band looks like a thread and loses proportion. It also suits a man who likes a minimalist style, who shows off little and lets only the material and the knot be seen. Pair it with a shirt with a small wing collar or an ordinary turn-down collar, with the top button always fastened; you can read more in men's shirt collar styles to choose a collar for your face.
3. Diamond point bow tie: sharp and crisp, for those who like angles
The diamond point has two ends cut into a diamond or triangle shape rather than a straight edge or flared wing. It is less common than the first two and gives a crisp feel, close to the classic character of a formal bow tie. It goes very naturally with a peak-lapel tuxedo, because both speak the same angular language.
Suits a man with a defined jawline, a long face and a taste for a polished classic look. The pointed ends make any difference between the two wings stand out, so when tying, balance the wings by hand and even out the width. Choose cloth stiff enough to hold its shape, because a soft bow tie lets the points droop and lose their sharpness.
4. Velvet or colour-matched bow tie: a quiet accent
A velvet bow tie, or a satin bow tie in burgundy, cobalt or deep purple, is a way to add a shade to a black or navy tuxedo without changing the suit. The accent lies in the material and the colour, not in a pattern, so it still keeps to etiquette.
Suits a wedding with a dominant colour scheme, a year-end gala, or a groom who wants the bow tie to follow the colour of the wedding flowers or the bridesmaids' dresses. The rule to keep: when the bow tie carries the colour, the pocket square should be plain white or in the same colour family; do not add a second bright colour. Velvet is thicker than satin and suits night events; at a hot outdoor reception in Ho Chi Minh City, a coloured satin bow tie is the lighter option.
5. Rhinestone or white bow tie: for the stage, not for every party
A white bow tie, in the true formalwear sense, belongs to the "white tie" dress code, worn with a tailcoat and a white waistcoat. Worn with a tuxedo, it becomes a bold choice suited to an MC, a performer or a themed event. Mon Amie has two reference models: TUX-093, a black tuxedo with peak lapels, a U-neck waistcoat, a white bow tie and a lily pin; and TUX-123, a black textured-weave tuxedo with shawl lapels, a V-neck waistcoat and a sparkling rhinestone bow tie.
A rhinestone bow tie already carries its own light, so leave out the lapel pin and choose simple cufflinks so the whole outfit is not busy. At a traditional wedding, a white bow tie and an all-white outfit can overshadow the bride, because white is the bride's colour; use a white bow tie when you are the MC or when it has been discussed with the family beforehand.
Quick summary table
| Bow tie style | Suits | Remember |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Butterfly | Square or full face; black-tie events | Bow tie material matches the lapel |
| 2. Batwing | Slim face, long neck; narrow lapels | On a large face the bow tie looks too slim |
| 3. Diamond point | Defined jawline; peak-lapel tuxedo | Stiff cloth, balance both wings |
| 4. Velvet or colour-matched | Wedding with a colour palette; gala | One bright colour, plain white pocket square |
| 5. Rhinestone or white | MC, themed events | Leave out the lapel pin, discuss with the family first |
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
- A self-tied bow tie is at its best slightly asymmetrical. A pre-tied bow tie is neat and even, safe for anyone unused to it; a self-tied one has more soul but needs a few practice runs before the wedding day.
- Measure the neck exactly where the bow tie will sit. Add one to two centimetres so you can breathe; a tight bow tie turns the neck red in photographs.
- Match the bow tie to the satin stripe on the trousers and to the lapels. A tuxedo has three points in the same material: lapel, bow tie and trouser stripe, and that very match makes the outfit look worked out.
- A stand-collar or small turn-down shirt, not a wide collar lying close. A wide collar presses down on the bow tie and throws it off line.
- Mon Amie coordinates the bow tie with the whole suit. The Groom Styling service includes ties, bow ties, pocket squares and cufflinks matched to the wedding concept.
Frequently asked questions
What can a bow tie be worn with besides a tuxedo?
The tuxedo is the familiar partner of the bow tie, but a light-grey or grey suit, or a blazer, can also take a bow tie when the dress code allows, such as a cocktail party or a wedding day. With an ordinary suit choose a small bow tie in a matte material; do not use the glossy satin of formalwear.
Where in Ho Chi Minh City can I have a bow tie coordinated?
You can visit one of Mon Amie's five showrooms so a stylist can match a bow tie with your tuxedo or groom's suit, or message Zalo 0888.111.118 to ask about bow tie options to go with it. You can also book a fitting to try the bow tie with the outfit on the spot.
Should I choose a self-tied or a pre-tied bow tie?
A pre-tied bow tie suits someone who needs it quick and even; a self-tied one suits the man who wants a classic presence. If you have never tied one, practise a week ahead, or choose a bow tie with an adjustable band so you do not have to face a knot at 5 p.m. on the wedding day.
How do belt and shoes go with a bow tie?
A traditional tuxedo uses a waistcoat or cummerbund in place of a belt, a detail covered in the article Should a Tuxedo Be Worn with a Belt?. As for shoes, patent leather shoes are not mandatory, but glossy black leather shoes remain the choice that keeps to etiquette.
Any of these men's bow tie styles is a small detail of the tuxedo, but it is where you can put your own stamp without breaking etiquette. Choose the bow tie before you settle the shirt and pocket square, because the bow tie decides the colour range of the whole outfit. If you want to try a tuxedo right away, you can look at the made-to-measure tuxedo range or Mon Amie's Groom Styling service.