A tailor looks at a suit through three places first: the shoulders, the collar and the breast pocket. That small pocket on the left of the chest cannot hold much, but if it bulges into a lump, sags or crumples, the whole suit loses points at once. This article looks at the suit breast pocket from the tailor's side: what styles there are, how to choose, and how to keep the pocket flat after many wears. (For putting a pocket square in the pocket, see also 8 tips for a neater breast pocket.)
Quick answer
The suit breast pocket is a tailoring detail, not a place to carry things. For a good-looking pocket, choose a style that suits the suit, a size in proportion to the chest, keep the pocket empty or with only a thin pocket square, and hang the jacket on the right hanger so the pocket opening is not pulled into a sag.
Three common breast pocket styles
| Pocket style | Characteristics | Suits |
|---|---|---|
| Straight welt pocket | The opening is a straight, clean line of binding | Business suits, formal occasions |
| Barchetta | The opening curves gently like the hull of a boat | Italian-style, softer suits |
| Patch pocket | A piece of cloth sewn on the outside | Blazers, sport jackets, a relaxed style |
If you are not sure which to choose, the straight welt pocket is the safest choice because it goes with most suits. The barchetta gives a softer feel, while the patch pocket pushes the suit toward everyday wear.
Size and position: small details that decide the proportions
The breast pocket sits on the left and tilts slightly along the line of the shoulder. The opening is usually about 10 cm long. What matters is the proportion:
- A pocket that is too large makes the chest look broad, especially on a man with a wide chest.
- A pocket that is too small makes the suit look flat and out of balance.
- A pocket set too low pulls the eye downward and makes the figure look shorter.
This is something for the master tailor to decide when cutting, because everyone has a different chest width and jacket length. You only need to tell the master tailor which pocket style you like.
Why breast pockets bulge and sag
- Putting things in the pocket. A phone, wallet, glasses or pen pull the opening down and distort it.
- Hanging the jacket on a hanger that is too narrow. The chest of the jacket is pulled down and the cloth around the pocket wrinkles.
- Pressing too hard. Pressing directly makes the cloth around the pocket opening shiny.
How to keep the breast pocket flat
- Keep the pocket empty or with only a thin pocket square. Phones, wallets and thick business cards belong in the inside pocket or the trouser pocket.
- Use a wide-shouldered hanger, so the shoulders and chest of the jacket keep their shape.
- Let the jacket rest after wearing. Hang it somewhere airy for a night and smooth the pocket opening flat with your hand.
- Steam gently. Use steam with a thin layer of cloth between, without pressing hard. For a premium wool suit, having the tailor handle it is the safest option.
What to say to the master tailor when ordering
If you often carry things, say so beforehand so that the master tailor can take the inside pocket and the proportions of the other pockets into account. If you want a breast pocket in a style of your own, bring a photo. See more ideas in the lookbook, choose cloth in the fabric library, and then talk through the details with a stylist in a bespoke session.
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
- A good pocket is about flatness, not about what is tucked inside.
- Look from the side at the baste fitting. From the side you can see at once whether the pocket bulges.
Frequently asked questions
Can the breast pocket be left off?
The breast pocket is a classic detail of the men's suit. If you want a different or more minimal pocket, talk it through with the master tailor when choosing the style.
Can a sagging breast pocket be fixed?
It depends on the degree. If it is only a fold, gentle steaming may help. If the cloth has stretched, have a tailor check it.
An invitation from Mon Amie
Small details such as the breast pocket are where someone who knows how to wear a suit differs from someone who merely wears one. If you want a suit cut right down to every detail, book an appointment for a Mon Amie stylist and master tailor to advise you.