There is a question that sounds small but causes real trouble: which coat can be worn over a whole suit without wrinkling the shoulders? Many men buy a lovely coat that fits well over a shirt, only to find, once they wear it over a suit, that the shoulders are pushed up and the sleeves are jammed. Men's jackets for the office have to be chosen differently: taking the suit layer underneath into account. Below are six elegant styles for rainy or cold days, and how to wear them properly.
Quick answer
Choose men's jackets for the office in this order: a wool overcoat or trench coat to wear over a suit; a blazer or knit cardigan to wear over a shirt; a harrington for relaxed office days. Safe colours are navy, charcoal, camel and beige. The outer coat must be at least slightly roomier than the suit beneath it at the shoulders and chest.
Six elegant men's jackets and coats for the office
1. Blazer: the easiest “suit-style jacket” for the office
A blazer is a suit-style jacket that does not come with matching trousers, usually made of wool or a wool blend, with a lighter structure than a suit. Worn over a shirt, it is serious enough for the meeting room and still comfortable. A navy blazer is the first essential; grey and a muted brown are the second choices. It is also what people usually mean when they search for a men's blazer jacket for the office. The article how to style a men's blazer sets out eight formulas for work and for leisure.
2. Overcoat: to wear over a suit
A wool overcoat falling to the knee or just below is the only style that goes “naturally” over a complete suit. Choose camel, charcoal, black or navy. A single-breasted coat looks lighter and more graceful; a double-breasted one looks more formal and assured. The overcoat's shoulders should fit snugly over the suit underneath, not so loose that they slip off the shoulder.
3. Trench coat: for rainy days
A trench has a waist belt, a double-breasted front, and cotton gabardine or a blend that is lightly water-resistant. Beige, khaki or navy are the classics. It is the most sensible choice for rainy days since it both keeps off the water and holds its shape over a suit. Choose a knee-length cut so that it covers the whole jacket hem. Note: a trench is only lightly water-resistant; in heavy rain you still need an umbrella.
4. Harrington: relaxed and youthful for the office
A short jacket that reaches the hip, with a stand collar and a zip, usually in cotton or a smooth blend. It suits companies that allow smart casual or relaxed Fridays. Pair it with a shirt and chino trousers, add suede shoes, and that is enough. Do not wear a harrington over a suit, because it is shorter than the suit's hem and throws the proportions off.
5. Button-up or zip-up knit cardigan: for cold offices
Many offices in Ho Chi Minh City run the air-conditioning cold enough that a button-up knit cardigan becomes a lifesaver. Choose fine, flat-knit wool in grey, navy or beige. Worn over a shirt, with a tie underneath if you wish, it looks far neater than a thick pullover. Avoid fuzzy knits and large patterns.
6. Peacoat or short wool coat: for deep cold
A thick wool coat, thigh-length, double-breasted, with wide lapels. It suits days that are truly cold, on business trips up north or abroad. Wear it over a shirt and sweater, not over a suit, since its short, thick shape hides the line of the suit.
Chart: choosing men's jackets for the office by situation
| Style | Over a suit? | Suitable weather | Colours to choose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blazer | No (replaces the suit) | Cool, cold air-conditioning | Navy, grey, muted brown |
| Overcoat | Yes | Cold, windy | Camel, charcoal, black, navy |
| Trench | Yes | Rain, slightly chilly | Beige, khaki, navy |
| Harrington | No | Cool, light rain | Navy, olive, grey |
| Knit cardigan | No | Air-conditioning, slightly chilly | Grey, navy, beige |
| Peacoat | No | Deep cold | Navy, black, charcoal |
How to wear a coat over a suit properly
- Try the coat on while wearing a suit. Bring a suit with you, or wear one to the fitting; do not try it on in just a shirt.
- Shoulders that fit over the suit, not much wider. If the coat's shoulders slide off your shoulders, it is too big.
- A length that covers the suit's hem by at least a few centimetres; ideally it falls at the knee. A suit hem poking out below a coat looks messy.
- Coat sleeves slightly longer than the suit sleeves, so that the suit sleeve and shirt cuff do not poke out in three layers.
- A coat collar that lies flat and does not crush the suit collar.
Before choosing a coat, make sure the suit underneath fits properly; if you are not sure, how a suit should fit: a 10-point check offers 10 points to check in front of the mirror.
Matching coat colours with office wear
| Suit or trouser colour | Suitable coat | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Navy | Camel, charcoal | Warm–cool contrast, so it does not sink |
| Charcoal or mid grey | Navy, black, camel | Clean and easy to match |
| Black | Charcoal, black, deep navy | Avoid a very light camel, which leaves a black suit looking out of harmony |
| Brown, beige | Navy, deep olive | Warm tones also need a cool note for balance |
General principle: the coat should be one step darker or warmer than the outfit beneath, and should not be identical to the colour of the suit, so that each layer has its own depth.
Youthful men's jackets for the office: three ways to freshen up
- Choose a slightly shorter cut: a hip-length blazer, or a harrington instead of a long overcoat, if the company allows.
- A more eye-catching colour that is still serious: olive, moss green or blue-grey instead of only black and grey.
- Micro-patterns: fine checks, delicate herringbone or very fine stripes instead of absolute plain.
Conversely, a glossy bomber jacket, a hoodie over a shirt or a sports jacket over a suit spoils the office line, however good the colour.
Common mistakes
- A coat that is tight at the shoulders because it was tried on only over a shirt.
- An overcoat that is too long (touching the calf or ankle), which makes shorter men look swallowed up, especially on a motorbike.
- Glossy, cheap nylon fabric, which is noticed at once in the office.
- Pockets stuffed with things, puffing out the seams.
- Forgetting that sweaters and thick coats affect how closely the suit underneath fits.
Frequently asked questions
What is a men's suit-style jacket for the office?
It is the familiar name for a blazer: a suit-style jacket that does not come with matching trousers, and which can be worn with dress trousers or chinos. A navy or grey blazer is one of the two foundations of a man's office wardrobe.
How many men's jackets for the office are enough?
Three make a compact wardrobe: one navy blazer, one overcoat or trench for cold, rainy days, and one knit cardigan to wear in the office. Quality matters more than quantity.
Which men's office jacket styles go out of fashion least?
A single-breasted camel or charcoal overcoat, and a navy blazer. These two hardly change with the fashion seasons, and can be worn for many years if looked after.
Do youthful men's office jackets suit middle-aged men?
Yes, if the fit is right and the colours are muted. Middle-aged men should choose good materials and a classic cut, and vary things with colour or a small pattern rather than with a style that is too young.
In closing
A men's jacket for the office of the right style, length and colour makes the whole office outfit look intentional, whether it is raining outside or the air-conditioning is running at full power. Mon Amie has wool overcoat styles on the products page; if you want the suit underneath to fit properly so that the coat sits well over it, take a look at the bespoke tailoring experience or book a measuring appointment.