On the morning of the ancestral altar ceremony, the bride steps out in a red ao dai embroidered in gold, and the whole family turns to look. Beside her is the groom in a suit chosen in a hurry without asking anyone, jet black and slightly shiny. In the family photograph, the two look as if they came from two different ceremonies. A groom in a suit and a bride in an ao dai make a lovely couple when the colours are matched properly, and an out-of-step one when each is chosen separately. This article helps the two of you choose a suit with an ao dai in mind, so that the colours sit in harmony.
The short answer
A groom in a suit and a bride in an ao dai should be matched on one principle: the ao dai is the focal point, the suit is the frame. A red ao dai suits a black, navy or charcoal suit; a white ao dai suits light grey, navy or beige; a pink ao dai suits smoke grey or navy; a gold ao dai suits navy or coffee brown. Accessories should echo one colour from the ao dai.
Three colour principles for the couple
- The bride is the focal point. The groom should choose a suit darker or more subdued than the ao dai, so the bride’s colour stands out. Do not choose the same colour, or a bright colour that competes for the light.
- The same tone, a different depth. If the ao dai is red, the groom can add a burgundy accent in the pocket square or bow tie, rather than a full red suit.
- Fabrics in the same spirit. The ao dai is usually in silk or brocade, hand-embroidered, with a sheen. A matt wool suit with no gloss makes a soft backdrop for the ao dai to shine against.
Suit colour chart by ao dai
| Bride’s ao dai colour | Suit the groom should choose | Suggested accessories |
|---|---|---|
| Red | Black, navy, charcoal | Bronze-gold or burgundy pocket square or bow tie |
| Pink | Smoke grey, navy, charcoal | Pale pink pocket square, grey tie |
| White, cream | Light grey, navy, beige | Silver-grey tie, white pocket square |
| Gold, bronze-gold | Navy, coffee brown, black | Bronze tie, cream pocket square |
| Turquoise, blue | Charcoal, deep navy, cream | A paler blue tie |
Black suit with a red ao dai: the classic pair
This is the most classic pairing in a Vietnamese wedding, and the easiest to get wrong in the material. The groom should choose a matt black suit with no sheen, a white shirt, and a burgundy tie or bow tie instead of bright red. If the ancestral altar photographs have a lot of red and gold, add a bronze-gold pocket square to “link” with the embroidery on the ao dai.
White suit with a red ao dai: strong contrast, photographs beautifully
A white suit beside a red ao dai gives a bright, striking photograph, well suited to a wedding reception or a photo session. But in a solemn ancestral altar ceremony, a head-to-toe white outfit can be too theatrical. If you choose it, choose a cream suit instead of pure white, and let a burgundy tie or bow tie link the colour with the ao dai. The article white suit for the groom: choosing the colour scheme analyses this in more depth.
Choosing the suit by ceremony
- Ancestral altar ceremony: subdued and formal. Navy, charcoal or matt black. A three-piece with a waistcoat for a solemn look.
- Engagement ceremony: can be fresher. Light grey or bright navy, plus a pocket square in a colour echoing the ao dai.
- Wedding reception: the most freedom. A tuxedo, a three-piece suit, a bow tie or a tie all work. Choose a suit that lets the bride stand out when the two of you dance.
Groom in a suit, bride in an ao dai: three common couple styles
From the many couples who visit the showroom, Mon Amie’s master tailors see three basic styles:
- Classic, sober and formal. A red or gold hand-embroidered ao dai, the groom in a black or navy suit, white shirt, burgundy tie. Suits the ancestral altar ceremony, a home with elders, and family photographs spanning many generations.
- Harmonised in the same palette. A pink, ivory or pastel blue ao dai, the groom in a smoke-grey or beige suit, accessories in the tone of the ao dai. Suits an engagement ceremony, outdoor photographs and a soft style.
- Deliberate contrast. A bright red ao dai beside a cream-white suit, or a white ao dai beside a deep navy suit. Suits a wedding reception, art photography, and couples who like to stand out.
All three styles are right, as long as the two of you choose with intent and stay consistent from outfit to accessories.
Groomsmen, parents and relatives: don’t forget the whole picture
In wedding photographs, the groom and bride do not stand alone. Groomsmen should choose suits in the same palette or slightly plainer than the groom’s (for example, the groom in a three-piece, the groomsmen in two-piece suits of the same colour), so the groom remains the focal point. The parents on both sides usually choose sober tones, so the groom’s suit and the colour of the bride’s ao dai need to harmonise with that shared tone. If the whole family dresses in coordinated tones, a single echoing accessory is enough.
Small details that create harmony
- The colour of the pocket square and boutonniere echoes the bouquet or the pattern on the ao dai.
- The tie or bow tie echoes the colour of the embroidery on the ao dai.
- Black or deep brown leather shoes, polished, clean and coordinated with the belt.
- A white shirt is the safest choice. A coloured shirt is only for when the ao dai is very simple.
A full list of accessories is in the article groom’s suit accessories checklist.
Tip from Mon Amie’s master tailors
Have the bride hold a swatch of the ao dai fabric, or send a photo of the real ao dai, when choosing the suit. Red in a photograph and in real life differ quite a lot, and orange-red next to black is very different from burgundy next to black. A small cloth swatch placed beside the suit cloth usually gives a more accurate answer than any colour chart. The fitting schedule should be counted back from the wedding day to leave time for adjustments, something Mon Amie’s Groom Styling wedding suit service sets up in advance for each couple.
Common mistakes
- Exactly the same colour. A red suit beside a red ao dai takes away the bride’s impact.
- A suit that is too shiny. A glossy material clashes with silk and brocade.
- Choosing separately without discussing. The two of you need to see the colours side by side, not through a phone.
- Accessories in too many colours. Echo just one colour from the ao dai.
Frequently asked questions
Does a suit go with an ao dai?
Very much so, as long as the groom wears a formal suit and the bride is the focal point. It is a popular choice at engagement ceremonies and wedding receptions.
Is a black suit with a red ao dai attractive?
Yes, it is the classic pairing. Choose a matt black suit with burgundy or bronze-gold accessories, and avoid glossy black.
Should the groom wear a white suit with a red ao dai?
It is fine for a reception or a photo shoot, but choose a cream suit instead of pure white and let a burgundy bow tie or tie link with the ao dai. For the ancestral altar ceremony, choose more subdued tones.
What colour suit goes with a pink ao dai?
Smoke grey, navy or charcoal all work. Pale pink accessories link with the ao dai, but they should not be deeper than the colour of the dress.
In closing
The two of you standing side by side in the wedding photograph will be looked at again for decades, so it is worth taking care when you choose a suit with an ao dai in mind. If you need someone to look with you, come to a Mon Amie showroom, bring a swatch of the ao dai fabric, and let the artisan lay it next to the suit samples so you can choose together.