“Which grey, exactly?” is the question grooms often ask when standing in front of the fabric rack at the showroom. It is the right question to ask, because grey is not one colour but a whole range, from a light grey close to silver to a dark charcoal close to black. Choosing the right shade of a grey wedding suit for the groom means choosing the whole atmosphere of the wedding.
The short answer
Charcoal suits evening receptions, indoor weddings and formal ceremonies; light grey suits daytime and outdoor weddings or a relaxed mood. Fair skin can carry both; darker skin stands out more in mid grey and light grey. To keep grey from fading in photos, add contrast: a bright white shirt, a bow tie or tie in colour, and a fabric with texture.
A grey suit for the groom: the three main shades
| Shade | Feel | Suited to the time of the reception | Bow tie and tie pairings |
|---|---|---|---|
| Light grey | Light, fresh, modern | Daytime weddings, outdoors, lunch receptions | Navy, sage green, dusty rose, pale burgundy |
| Mid grey | Balanced, the easiest to pair | Any time, any venue | Burgundy, navy blue, silver, petrol blue |
| Charcoal | Deep, elegant, formal | Evening receptions, hotel weddings | Silver, burgundy, plum purple, deep navy |
These three shades differ more than you would think once they are in photos. Light grey in harsh sun easily washes out and loses depth. Charcoal in an evening banquet hall can look almost black without any texture in the fabric.
Choosing the shade of grey by the time of the reception
Daytime wedding, outdoors. Sunlight increases the brightness of every colour, so mid grey or light grey will feel light and easy on the eye. Choose a fresh wool with some breathability. A charcoal that is too deep gets hot under the midday sun and looks heavy.
Evening reception in a restaurant or hotel. Yellow lighting makes dark colours look more elegant. Charcoal or a deep mid grey is a safe and handsome choice, especially when paired with a waistcoat.
Two events in one day. If you are only making one suit, choose mid grey. In the morning wear it with a white shirt and a light tie; in the evening switch to a darker bow tie or tie so the suit "changes hours".
Choosing a grey suit by skin tone
- Fair skin. Almost every shade works. Charcoal gives high contrast, light grey gives a light, refined feel.
- Medium, yellow-toned skin. Mid grey and charcoal suit best; light grey should go with a very bright white shirt so the face does not look dull.
- Darker skin. Light grey and mid grey bring out the face better than charcoal, especially when paired with a blue or burgundy tie.
This is a guideline, not a hard rule. The surest way is still to hold the fabric against your face in front of a mirror, under the same kind of lighting as the venue.
Pairing a bow tie or tie with the groom's grey suit
A grey suit is a neutral base, so the groom has a lot of freedom with accessories.
- Silver bow tie or tie. Elegant and harmonious, it suits charcoal. Do not use it with light grey, because silver easily blends into the suit.
- Burgundy. Striking, warm and still polite; it suits every shade of grey.
- Navy. Harmonious and refined, suited to daytime.
- Dusty rose, sage green. For soft, outdoor weddings; needs a white shirt for balance.
- Plum velvet bow tie. For a groom who wants personality at an evening reception.
For the general rules on ties with a grey suit, you can read the article what colour tie goes with a grey suit for more options.
A grey suit for the groom and the groomsmen
A groom in a grey suit has two ways to stand beside the groomsmen, and both look good if planned in advance.
- Groomsmen one step darker than the groom. The groom wears mid grey or light grey, and the groomsmen wear charcoal or navy. The groom is naturally the brightest figure in the photo, with no extra detail needed.
- Groomsmen in the same grey, the groom adds a layer. The whole party wears the same shade of grey, and only the groom has a waistcoat, a bow tie in a different colour or a boutonniere. This is tidy and coordinated.
Whichever you choose, you should ask in advance about the colour of the bride's and bridesmaids' dresses. If the bride's dress is cream or ivory, a charcoal suit gives the couple a lovely contrast. If the dresses are pastel, light grey and mid grey blend more gently. The options for the groomsmen are part of the wedding suit Groom Styling service, so you can discuss them together with the groom's suit.
Keeping the grey groom's suit from fading into the wedding photos
Grey is a colour that easily turns "invisible" in photos if the setting is also neutral. Three ways to keep the groom standing out:
- Create contrast at the chest. A flat, bright, well-pressed white shirt; a bow tie or tie in a clearly defined colour. The chest area is the first place a viewer looks at in a photo.
- Choose a fabric with texture. Herringbone, birdseye or a subtle check give a grey suit depth in front of the lens, instead of one flat expanse.
- Add a layer. A waistcoat in the same tone or one shade darker makes the suit look fuller and adds lines to the torso.
Do not let the bride, the bridesmaids and the photo background all sit in the same band of grey. Ask beforehand about the main colour of the party and the bridesmaids' dresses so you can choose a shade of grey that is slightly off-tone.
Which fabric for a grey suit at a wedding in Saigon?
Marrying in a hot, humid city means you will stand, walk and be photographed for many hours in wool. Prioritise pure wool or a wool blend with a high proportion of wool, with a medium weave, not too thick. Herringbone or birdseye weaves give a lovely texture while staying breathable. Avoid fabrics with a lot of synthetic fibre, because they are stuffy and turn shiny with sweat.
In terms of quality, Mon Amie's Signature line, with Kevinlli 80–100% wool 140s–150s and fabrics from Dolce & Taylor, Luciano, Salford and Vercelli, is worth considering for a wedding. If you want something more luxurious still, the Heritage line from Canonico or Holland Sherry has some very beautiful greys, but the investment is correspondingly larger.
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
Charcoal looks perfectly pleasing when tried in the showroom, but standing in outdoor sunlight it can feel a little heavy. We usually invite the groom to step near a large window to see the fabric in natural light before deciding. With a grey suit, light changes the impression of the colour more clearly than with most other colours, so do not choose the fabric only under the showroom lamps.
Frequently asked questions
Which looks better for the groom, a light grey suit or a charcoal suit?
Neither shade is absolutely better. Light grey suits daytime weddings and a relaxed mood; charcoal suits evening receptions and indoor weddings. If you are only making one suit for the whole day, mid grey is the balanced choice.
Should a grey groom's suit be paired with a bow tie or a tie?
Both are fine. A bow tie suits an evening wedding and a classic style; a tie suits a daytime wedding and a modern style. With a grey suit, a burgundy or silver bow tie, or a navy or burgundy tie, all show up clearly in photos.
Does a grey wedding suit look dull?
Grey looks pale if everything is neutral and the fabric is flat. Add a bright white shirt, accessories in colour and a fabric with texture, and a grey suit gains depth and stands out.
What setting suits photos of a grey suit?
A setting with warm colours or vivid greenery makes a grey suit stand out more than a grey or white background. Bright, even light keeps light grey from washing out, while charcoal looks lovely where there is warm golden light.
Is a grey wedding suit suitable for a young groom?
Very much so. Grey is the colour of composure that is still modern, especially when the groom chooses a slim shoulder cut, straight-leg trousers and accessories with an accent. See more on how to look younger in the article a youthful groom's suit.
An invitation from Mon Amie
If you are torn between shades of grey, the surest way is to hold each fabric sample up to your face. You can preview the samples in the fabric library, experience the Groom Styling service or put together your own suit with the online suit design tool. We would be glad to invite you to an appointment at the showroom to choose a fabric under real light.