Hang two suits of the same color and the same price range side by side, and a person with a good eye will tell which one looks better within seconds. They do not look at the label; they look at very specific details. This article gathers seven signs so that you can check for yourself what makes a good suit at the moment you try it on.
Quick answer
A good-looking suit has shoulders that fit, a collar that hugs the shirt collar, flat lapels, sleeves and jacket of the right length, cloth that drapes cleanly with few wrinkles, trousers that hold their shape, and is comfortable in all three postures: standing, sitting and raising your arms.
7 signs of a good-looking suit
- Shoulders that fit and lie flat. The shoulder point sits exactly at the end of the shoulder bone, neither sticking out nor sagging. The shoulders are the hardest part to alter, so check them first.
- A collar that hugs the shirt collar. When you stand straight, the suit collar lies against the shirt collar, with no gap at the back and about 1 cm of shirt collar showing.
- Lapels that are flat and neat. The lapels lie quietly on the chest, without bulging or rippling. The roll line of the lapel is natural.
- Chest and body. Buttoned, the body of the jacket lies flat, without gaping into an X-shaped crease and without being baggy.
- Sleeves of the right length. About 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff shows. The sleeves hang without twisting.
- A sensible jacket length. It covers the seat, and the skirt hangs straight, without flaring or flipping up.
- Trousers that hold their shape. The waistband fits at the waist, the crease is straight, and the hems rest lightly on the top of the shoes.
Cloth: what gives the drape
Good cloth drapes cleanly along the body, wrinkles little and has a natural elasticity. A simple test: grip a corner of the cloth tightly in your hand for a few seconds, then let go. Good cloth returns flat quickly; poor cloth keeps the creases.
The number in the name of a wool cloth, such as 120s, 140s or 150s, tells the fineness of the yarn. Finer yarn gives softer, lighter cloth, but a "high number" is not always right: someone who wears the suit daily needs cloth that is durable as well as soft. You can see real materials in the fabric library, or look at the three price lines in the price list.
Finishing details show the craftsmanship
- Even stitching, that does not come undone or sink.
- Firm buttons, with neat buttonholes.
- A clean lining inside; the inside shows the craftsmanship as clearly as the outside.
- Patterns that match at the seams if the cloth is striped or checked.
Common mistakes when choosing a suit
- Choosing by label and forgetting to try it on. Two suits of the same size can fit differently.
- Choosing a larger size for comfort. A loose suit is not more comfortable, only baggier.
- Looking only at the front. Check the back and the side view too.
- Not trying it with the shoes and shirt. The trouser length and the sleeve cuff depend on those two items.
Why made-to-measure gives a better-looking suit
A ready-made suit is only approximately right for most people. Made-to-measure is different: the artisan takes more than 30 measurements, does a baste fitting and adjusts until it fits, so the shoulders, chest and waist are worked out for your build alone. The showroom will give you a specific schedule at the time of measuring. You can see the lookbook to look at finished suits.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know whether a suit fits at the shoulders?
The shoulder point sits exactly at the end of the shoulder bone, and the jacket neither sticks out nor sags when you let your arms hang.
Does a good-looking suit have to be expensive?
No. A well-fitted suit in a mid-range line usually looks better than an expensive one with off shoulders.
An invitation from Mon Amie
The quickest way to know which suit suits you is to try it on in person. Book an appointment or visit a showroom for a Mon Amie stylist to measure and advise you.