A white suit is the one outfit that hardly allows a single detail to go wrong. The jacket already outshines the room, so a wrongly chosen tie or bow tie instantly becomes the centre of attention, and not in a very flattering way. So what colour tie with a white suit is both striking and refined? And when should you drop the tie for a bow tie?
The short answer
A white suit works best with a black, navy or burgundy tie: black for an evening party, navy for daytime, burgundy for a wedding reception. If the event calls for evening formal wear, swap the tie for a black bow tie. The general rule: the whole outfit should have only three main colours, and the accessories must contrast with the jacket, not match it.
Principles of colour balance for a white suit
A white suit is like a blank sheet of paper. Anything placed on it is seen more clearly, so choose with intent.
- Controlled contrast. The tie must be clearly darker or deeper than the jacket to create an accent. A white or cream tie will “sink” into the outfit.
- Three colours at most. The white of the suit, the colour of the shirt and the colour of the tie. A pocket square, if you wear one, repeats one of the other two.
- Compatible materials. A matt silk or fine wool tie suits matt suiting cloth. A shiny satin tie suits a tuxedo more than a daytime suit.
White suit with a black tie: the classic choice
Black is the most familiar partner and the hardest to get wrong. A white shirt, a black tie and a white pocket square: simple, clean, and suitable for evening parties, stage events and summer galas. To lighten it, switch to a black twill-weave tie or one with a tone-on-tone pattern. For stronger contrast, simply replace the white shirt with a very pale blue one.
White suit with a navy tie: lovely by day
A navy tie makes a white suit a notch less formal. It is the right choice for outdoor parties, daytime weddings or summer gatherings. A navy tie with a fine stripe, small polka dots or a textured weave looks good, as long as the width of the tie is moderate, about 7 to 8 cm.
White suit with a red or burgundy tie: warm and emotive
- Burgundy is elegant and warm, suited to wedding receptions and evenings full of golden light. Pair it with a white pocket square or a matching burgundy one.
- Bright red is bolder, suited to the stage and year-end parties, but it can glare, so keep the rest of the outfit very restrained.
- Metallic orange-red often appears in festive collections, and looks good when you are confident in a bold style.
When should you swap the tie for a bow tie?
A bow tie is the choice for a formal evening. If the invitation says “black tie”, or you are wearing a white tuxedo (also called a white dinner jacket), a black bow tie is always the right answer. With an ordinary white suit a black bow tie is still acceptable, but it should be self-tied, in matt silk or satin, rather than a glossy pre-tied one.
A few things to consider before choosing a bow tie:
- Suits the shirt collar. A bow tie looks best with a standard turndown collar or a wing collar.
- Suits the occasion. A bow tie by day is easily judged as “overdressed”, so keep it for evening events or themed weddings.
- Suits your character. A bow tie requires you to be comfortable enough to wear it all evening. If you feel awkward, a tie is still an elegant choice.
If you want to learn how to tie one, the article on choosing a bow tie for the groom explains which bow-tie sizes suit which face shapes.
Accessory chart by occasion
| Occasion | Tie / bow tie | Shirt | Pocket square |
|---|---|---|---|
| Evening party, gala | Black tie or black bow tie | White | White, folded flat |
| Daytime or outdoor wedding | Navy or blue-grey tie | White or pale blue | Navy or white |
| Wedding reception, indoor ceremony | Burgundy tie | White | Burgundy or white |
| Stage, performance | Black, bright red or bow tie | White or black | Same colour as the tie |
| Summer party, beach | Light navy, pastel blue | Pale blue | Omit, or cream |
Colours to avoid
- A white or cream tie on a white suit: you lose the accent.
- A neon tie or too many patterns: it looks busy and overpowers the outfit.
- A light grey tie: close in colour to a white suit in photographic light, and it looks washed out.
- A shiny tie or one with too wide a blade: it looks more like festival wear than refined dress.
What colour tie with a white suit when you change the shirt?
A tie does not stand alone. It sits between the jacket and the shirt, so each type of shirt carries a different choice:
- White shirt: any tie works. It is the safest base, so if you are still unsure, keep the white shirt and change only the tie.
- Light blue shirt: suits a navy, silver-grey or blue-striped tie. Avoid a bright red tie, because the three colours easily “argue”.
- Pale pink shirt: suits a navy or burgundy tie, giving a daytime white suit a warm look.
- Black shirt: suits a matching black tie, or no tie at all. This is a bold combination, better for the stage and evening parties than for family events.
A simple rule: the darker the shirt, the more the tie should match its tone or be dropped; the paler the shirt, the more the tie can be the accent. Choosing a shirt collar that suits a bow tie or a tie matters just as much, but that is a story for another article.
Tie patterns: plain, polka-dot or striped?
A white suit is a clean canvas, so the simpler the tie pattern, the more refined it looks. A plain tie in a textured weave or twill is the safest choice. Small polka dots give a classic, gentlemanly feel. A fine diagonal stripe suits a light office style. Large motifs such as paisley should be used only when you are completely confident in the rest of the outfit, and should be kept in the same tone as the pocket square so the whole look does not become fussy.
Tip from Mon Amie’s master tailors
When you are wondering what colour tie to wear with a white suit, check the tie under two kinds of light: the yellow lighting indoors and natural light outdoors. Some colours look lovely under lamps but drift towards grey in the sun. And do not forget the shoes: a white suit demands cleaner shoes than any other, and the article on what shoes to wear with a white suit will help you choose the right colour.
Frequently asked questions
Does a black tie suit a white suit?
Very much so. It is the classic pairing, contrasting enough to photograph well and formal enough for an evening party. Choose a matt black tie of moderate width and a clean white shirt.
When should you wear a black bow tie with a white suit?
When the event has a formal evening dress code, or when you are wearing a white tuxedo. For more everyday occasions, a tie is still more elegant and less likely to be seen as overdressed.
Is a bow tie with a white suit over the top?
No, provided it suits the occasion and the bow tie is neat and matt. What usually makes people see it as over the top is a bow tie that is too large, too shiny, or worn in the morning at a casual event.
Which red should you choose for a red tie with a white suit?
Burgundy is the safest and the most elegant. Bright red should be used only when you want a strong accent and keep everything else neutral.
In closing
Choosing the right accessories for a white suit is like placing the full stop at the end of a sentence: small, but it decides how people read the whole sentence. If you are preparing for a wedding day, take a look at Mon Amie’s Groom Styling service, or book a visit at a Mon Amie showroom to try cloth and accessories in person.