The question that makes many people hesitate before having a suit made is: what if it turns out wrong? For the tailor, the more important question is how to be certain it looks right from the start. This article goes through the reasons a suit turns out "not right" and how to avoid them, from the measuring to the baste fitting.
Quick answer
A made-to-measure suit usually turns out wrong for three reasons: the measurements do not match your natural standing posture, the client has not made clear their taste or the occasion, and the baste fitting was skipped. The way to avoid this is careful measuring, frank discussion with the stylist, a baste fitting and adjustments until it fits. The showroom will explain the alteration terms clearly at the time of measuring.
Why a finished suit can look wrong
- Measurements taken in the wrong posture. If you are measured while pulling in your stomach, puffing out your chest or tilting a shoulder, the measurements will differ from your everyday posture.
- Cloth that does not suit the occasion. Thick cloth worn outdoors in the heat, or shiny cloth worn to the office, both cause discomfort.
- Not saying clearly what you like. Fitted or relaxed, long jacket or short: if you do not say, the tailor has to guess.
- Skipping the baste fitting. The baste is a rough-sewn version for adjusting before the suit is finished. Skipping this step means giving up the earliest chance to correct things.
- Your body changes between the measuring and the collection.
- Wearing the wrong shirt or shoes at the measuring and fitting, which throws off the collar or the trouser hems.
Signs that need adjusting at the fitting
At the baste fitting, look in the mirror and tell the master tailor if you see:
- The jacket collar gaps away from the shirt collar, usually because the curve of the collar does not match.
- Creases pulling from the collar down to the shoulder, a sign the shoulders do not fit yet.
- An X-shaped crease around the jacket button, the jacket is tight at the chest or waist.
- The jacket skirt flips up or flares out, the waist and hip need adjusting.
- Trousers bunching with creases at the crotch, the waistband or the rise is not right yet.
- Sleeves too long or too short, which are adjusted very quickly while still at the baste stage.
A process for a good-looking suit from the start
At the showroom, the bespoke tailoring service goes through these steps: a one-to-one consultation with a stylist and a master tailor, more than 30 measurements, cloth chosen in the fabric library, a baste fitting and adjustments until perfect, then collection with a long-term alteration warranty. See the made-to-measure process in detail.
What you can do to help the master tailor
- Bring the shirt and shoes you plan to wear with the suit.
- Stand naturally when being measured. Do not tense up.
- Bring photos of suits you like, so the tailor understands your taste faster.
- Say plainly what you are not happy with at the first fitting, rather than waiting until collection.
- Keep your weight stable while the suit is being made.
Tips from Mon Amie's master tailors
- The shoulders are the hardest part to alter, so check them most carefully at the first fitting.
- A well-fitted suit does not need to be "skin tight"; it needs to be comfortable when you move.
- Choose cloth by how you wear it, not by price. See the price list of the three fabric lines to choose a sensible level.
Frequently asked questions
What if the baste fitting shows it does not fit yet?
Tell the master tailor straight away. That is exactly the purpose of the baste fitting: to adjust until it fits.
Can it be adjusted after I collect the suit?
Suits made at Mon Amie come with a long-term alteration warranty. Bring it to the showroom when you need an adjustment.
How does the fitting work if I live far away?
The online made-to-measure service supports measuring by video. For an important suit, it is better to have the fitting in person at the showroom.
An invitation from Mon Amie
A good-looking suit is the result of careful measuring, a careful fitting and frankness on both sides. Book an appointment to begin.