At 7:40 on a Monday morning you stand in front of the mirror, a red tie in your left hand, a blue one in your right, and the meeting starts at half past eight. Anyone who has been there knows that matching suit and tie colours is hard not because there is a shortage of good colours, but because there is no framework for deciding in thirty seconds. This article gives you that framework.
Quick answer
To match suit and tie colours well, choose a tie with a different level of lightness or darkness from the suit, as dark as or darker than the shirt, and keep the whole outfit to a single point of emphasis. A navy suit goes with a wine-red or silver-grey tie, a grey suit with navy and bordeaux, a black suit with silver or deep red. If you are still unsure, a plain navy tie is rarely wrong.
Three rules before you open the tie drawer
Most well-dressed men do not remember colour formulas. They remember only the three points below, and these apply to every suit.
1. Look at light and dark first, colour second. Imagine photographing the outfit in black and white: suit, shirt and tie should separate into three clear blocks. A navy tie on a deep navy suit is two blocks merging into one, and it looks as if a piece is missing. A bordeaux tie on the same suit stands apart at once, even though both are muted colours.
2. The tie is as dark as or darker than the shirt. The order of getting lighter from tie, to suit, to shirt is the most familiar arrangement. A white shirt goes with almost every tie; a light blue shirt needs a clearly darker tie, otherwise the whole collar area looks washed out.
3. One star for the whole outfit. If the tie is vivid, the pocket square should be neutral (white, cream). If you want a coloured pocket square, the tie steps back into deeper tones. Two pieces that both demand the stage will fight for the same spot.
There is one more rule, about size: the width of the tie should be close to the width of the lapel. With a lapel about 8 cm wide, the tie should be 7 to 8 cm; a slim-cut suit with a narrow lapel goes with a tie of about 6 cm.
Quick chart: suit and tie colour combinations for 6 suit colours
The chart below is a suggested framework for plain ties. Simply look up the row for your suit colour.
| Suit colour | Safe tie | Tie for a point of emphasis | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Navy | Silver-grey, a blue lighter than the suit, bordeaux | Red, mustard yellow, burnt orange | Black; a navy too close to the suit's shade |
| Grey (charcoal, light grey) | Navy, plain black, silver | Deep red, teal, moss green | A grey of the same depth as the suit |
| Black | Silver, charcoal grey, ivory white | Deep red, sapphire blue, navy with red stripes | Brown; garish colours that undermine the formal look |
| Beige | Navy, chocolate brown, moss green | Brick red, teal | Yellow, or a beige close to the suit; black is too heavy |
| Brown | Cream, olive green, navy | Burnt orange, bronze-gold, wine red | Black; cool grey |
| Green (moss, olive) | Cream, brown, bronze-gold | Bordeaux, navy | Bright red (easily turns Christmas-like); a green in the same tone |
A few notes for using the chart wisely:
- A black suit is the colour most demanding of its tie. This suit is made for evenings and ceremonies, so a silver, grey or deep red tie usually suits it better than bright colours.
- A grey suit is the most flexible base. Charcoal goes from the meeting room to a party; light grey leans towards daytime and the hot season.
- Beige, brown and green suits are earth tones. They look best alongside ties that are also warm or neutral.
The shirt in the middle decides everything
The tie does not stand alone; it sits on the shirt. So choose the shirt first and only then work out the tie.
- White shirt: a neutral base; any tie can borrow it.
- Light blue shirt: suits navy and grey suits; the tie needs to be clearly darker (navy, bordeaux, moss green).
- Pink or pale purple shirt: suits grey and navy suits; keep the tie dark, and avoid a pink tie only slightly deeper in shade because it creates a feeling of being out of tune.
- Striped or checked shirt: the tie should be plain or have a pattern at a completely different scale.
Tie patterns: how to match without it looking busy
A plain tie is the sure option. If you want a pattern, use the “different scale” rule:
- Stripes go with a plain shirt. A diagonal-striped tie is the classic choice, strongest when the stripes are wider than those on the suit.
- Polka dots look good at small to medium sizes, and appear elegant on a navy or grey ground.
- Paisley and floral patterns suit a plain shirt and a plain suit; let one piece carry the pattern while the other two stay quiet.
- Two patterns of the same kind (stripe with stripe, check with check) only work when the two differ clearly in scale.
Five ties worth having in your wardrobe
The tie colours that are easiest to match do not need to be many. The five below cover almost every suit in regular use:
- Plain navy (or navy grenadine): rescues grey, black and beige suits.
- Plain bordeaux (wine red) or small polka dots: suits navy, grey and black suits.
- Silver-grey: suits navy and black suits, softer than a white tie.
- Blue with a small diagonal stripe: everyday occasions, meetings, the office.
- Deep moss green or chocolate brown: for beige, brown and green suits, and for the days you want to be a little different.
Material is also part of “colour”. A glossy silk tie suits a smooth wool suit, for evenings. A wool or grenadine tie suits a textured suit, for daytime and the cooler months. The smoother the suit, the more sheen the tie should have; the rougher the suit, the more matt the tie should be.
Common mistakes, seen through a master tailor's eyes
- A tie exactly the same colour as the suit. It looks as if you bought the wrong set and lacks depth. Be at least one step off in lightness or darkness.
- Pocket square and tie in the same fabric. The “bought as a set” pair looks very predictable. Keep the same colour family but use different patterns.
- A tie too wide for a narrow lapel, or the reverse. A mismatch in proportion makes the suit look borrowed.
- Choosing the tie first and the suit afterwards. Go the other way round: suit, shirt, then tie.
- A knot that is too big. A suit with a narrow lapel suits a compact knot; a big knot only suits a wide spread collar. You can refer to the simplest way to tie a tie.
Frequently asked questions
Is there an easy-to-remember formula for matching a men's suit with a tie?
Yes: suit, shirt and tie must differ in lightness and darkness, the tie is as dark as or darker than the shirt, and only one piece is the point of emphasis. Look up the chart above by suit colour, choosing the “safe” column when you want certainty and the “emphasis” column when you want to stand out.
Which tie colour is the easiest to match?
Plain navy is the easiest colour to match, followed by bordeaux, silver-grey and blue with a diagonal stripe. These four go with most navy, grey and black suits without much thought.
What tie should I choose to go with a black suit?
A black suit goes with a silver, charcoal grey, deep red or navy-with-red-stripe tie. You should avoid brown and colours that are too bright, because they make a black suit lose its formal look. For more on what goes with it, see the article what colour tie to wear with a black suit.
Can I wear a tie with a checked shirt and a striped suit at the same time?
Yes, if the three patterns differ in scale: a fine suit stripe, a wide tie stripe, a small check on the shirt. Beginners should keep two pieces plain and one patterned, then step up gradually.
A good tie begins with a suit in the right colour
A tie is only the last part of the story; the colour of the suit is the base. If you are choosing a suit and want to preview the whole outfit, the online suit design tool lets you try fabric colours together with accessories. And if you want to hold a tie, fabric and colour in your hand, the Mon Amie showrooms always have them ready; you can view the product collection or book a measuring appointment to have a stylist put the outfit together with you.