Two men wear suits of the same colour and stand side by side. One looks put together; the other looks as if he borrowed his clothes. The difference rarely lies in the price of the cloth. It lies in small rules that a tailor spots at a glance. This article gathers seven rules for wearing a suit more elegantly, no fashion expertise required.
Quick answer
A well-dressed man's suit fits at the shoulder and the waist, shows about 1 cm of shirt cuff at the sleeve, lets the trousers rest lightly on the shoe, and keeps its colours to no more than three main tones. Style lies in neatness and consistency, not in wearing more.
1. The shoulder is the part that cannot be altered
The shoulder is the hardest part of a jacket to adjust. The shoulder seam must sit exactly at the end of your shoulder, neither drooping nor poking up. If you buy off the rack, choose by the shoulder first, then have a tailor adjust the rest. With a made-to-measure suit, the master tailor measures and baste-fits so that the shoulder matches you alone.
2. Jacket and sleeve length
- The body of the jacket covers the seat, with the hem falling roughly where your fingers curl when your arms hang straight.
- The jacket sleeve stops right at the wrist bone, showing about 1 cm of shirt cuff.
- The jacket collar hugs the shirt collar, with no gap at the back of the neck.
3. Trousers: a clean leg, a hem that touches the shoe
Well-cut suit trousers have a crisp crease running straight from waistband to hem. The hem should rest with only a slight break (a half break) at the top of the shoe, or none at all. Trousers that are too long make the whole suit look sloppy, however good the jacket is.
4. Colour pairing: three tones are enough
One suit, one shirt and one tie already make three tones. Keep one of them neutral (white, pale blue, grey) and let the others provide the accent. A navy suit with a white shirt and a burgundy tie is a formula that is hard to get wrong.
5. Shoes and belt from the same family
A black or charcoal suit goes with black shoes. A navy suit suits dark brown or black shoes. The belt should match the shoes in colour and in shine. It is a small detail, but a discerning client sees it at once.
6. Button the jacket correctly
Two-button jacket: fasten only the top button. Three-button jacket: fasten the middle button; the top one may be fastened or not. The bottom button always stays open. Unbutton when you sit and fasten again when you stand. It is a small gesture, but it shows that the wearer is at home in a suit.
7. Few accessories, chosen with purpose
A neatly folded pocket square, a tie in the right tone and a slim watch are enough. Too many accessories dilute a suit. The tie should reach exactly the waistband of the trousers, no longer.
Common mistakes
- Wearing a loose suit for fear of feeling "tight", and ending up looking as if the jacket is borrowed.
- Forgetting that the shirt collar should rise a little above the jacket collar.
- Stuffing the pockets, which ruins the line of the cut.
- Wearing the same suit day after day without letting the cloth rest.
You can see more combinations in the lookbook, or choose colours in the fabric library before coming to the showroom.
Frequently asked questions
Does an elegant suit have to be made to measure?
Not necessarily, but made-to-measure gets you the right shoulder and waist, the two things that decide how elegant a suit looks. See the price list for the fabric tiers.
What colour suit should an office worker choose?
Navy and charcoal are the two easiest colours to pair, and suit most workplaces.
An invitation from Mon Amie
If you want to get it right from the very first time, book an appointment and a stylist will check your build with you and choose a suitable cut.