A tie takes up less than a tenth of an outfit, yet it sits right at the center of the chest, where the eye of the person facing you stops first. A tie of the right width and the right color, neatly knotted, can lift a whole suit. One of the wrong width, with a crooked knot, does the opposite. Let us look at the tie so that you can choose and knot it well.
Quick answer
A good tie is about 7–8 cm wide, in proportion to the lapels; once knotted, the tip reaches about the middle of the belt buckle. Choose a tie that is darker or more striking than the shirt, in silk for formal occasions and in wool or knit for a relaxed style.
Tie width: how wide is right
The rule is that the tie should have a width in proportion to the lapels of the suit. Wide lapels go with a medium-width tie; narrow lapels go with a slimmer tie. Most business ties are about 7–8 cm wide. A tie that is too thin throws a tall, broad man out of proportion, while a tie that is too wide swallows the whole chest of a shorter man.
Length and how to knot it
Once knotted, the wide end of the tie should reach about the middle of the belt buckle. Too short and it looks like a bib; too long and it pokes out below the waistband. The small end at the back should always sit neatly in the keeper loop or be shorter than the wide end.
Three common knots:
- Four-in-hand: a long, slightly asymmetrical knot, easy to tie, suits a regular collar.
- Half Windsor: a balanced triangular knot, moderate in size, suits most situations.
- Windsor: a large, symmetrical, formal knot, suits a wide collar (spread collar).
A small detail that gives character: the dimple just below the knot. Use your finger to form a small indentation as you tighten the knot; it looks more natural and has more life.
Tie materials
| Material | Feel | Suits |
|---|---|---|
| Silk | Smooth, slightly glossy, formal | Important meetings, parties, weddings |
| Wool | Soft, warm, matte | Woolen suits, a relaxed style |
| Cotton, linen | Light, textured | Sunny days, light suits |
| Knit | Square-ended, lively | Blazers, outings, creative workplaces |
Choosing color and pattern
- Navy, gray, wine red: safe, suit most suits.
- Diagonal stripes: suit the office, but if the suit already has a stripe, choose a stripe of a very different width so they do not "fight".
- Small polka dots: polished, seldom out of fashion.
- A plain tie: the easiest to pair, suits even a patterned suit.
A simple rule: only one of the three pieces (suit, shirt, tie) should have a striking pattern; leave the other two plain or with a very small pattern.
Common mistakes
- A tie the exact same color as the shirt: looks flat and lacks depth. Choose a few tones darker or lighter.
- A knot that is too large for a small collar.
- A wrinkled or frayed tie. Hang your ties; do not leave them knotted and stuffed into a drawer.
The tie on the wedding day
For the groom and the groomsmen, the tie or bow tie should be coordinated with the wedding concept. Mon Amie's groom styling service pairs ties, bow ties and pocket squares for each concept. You can also see the lookbook for ideas on matching colors.
Frequently asked questions
Should I choose the tie first or the suit first?
Choose the suit first, then choose the tie by color and lapel. If you can, try the tie right on the suit you will wear.
How often should I replace a tie?
When it has lost its shape, wrinkled or frayed. With proper care, a good tie can last many years.
Do I need a tie for everyday work?
It depends on the company culture. If your company requires a formal dress code, you should wear a tie.
An invitation from Mon Amie
Choosing the most suitable tie always starts from the suit and shirt you plan to wear. Book an appointment or visit a showroom for a Mon Amie stylist to try ties right on your suit.