Single Breasted và Double Breasted - NHỮNG SỰ KHÁC BIỆT
Khi nghĩ về trang phục cho sự kiện quan trọng, chắc hẳn đã có lúc bạn sẽ tự hỏi mình nên chọn kiểu Suit nào? Suit 1 hàng khuy quen thuộc hay Suit 2 hàng khuy sang trọng và cầu kì? Single Breasted và Double Breasted NÊN chọn kiểu nào ?Sự khác biệt và lựa chọn
Sự thành công của bộ film Kingsman đã ghi dấu ấn mạnh mẽ với hình ảnh người đàn ông lịch lãm, nam tính trong bộ vest Double Breasted kể từ thập niên 80 thế kỉ trước. Mà ít ai hiểu được tường tận lịch sử của chúng
Lịch sử nói về Single Breasted và Double Breasted
Từ những năm 1920 đã có những "Cuộc chiến" giữa hai phong cách Suit cho đến thế chiến thứ 2, vị thế của Suit 2 dải khuy đã không thể giữ vững do sự khó khăn về vải vóc.
Single breasted trở thành phong cách thời trang chiếm lĩnh tận đến những năm 1980.
Double Breasted đã dần len lỏi trở lại trong suốt thập niên 80s và 90s thế kỉ trước. (điển hình là Jame Bond và Sói già phố Wall với form dáng rộng dài cùng phần vai lớn). Những bộ suit Double Breasted bắt đầu lan toả mạnh mẽ khi gắn với những nhân vật nổi tiếng như Thân Vương xứ Wales Charles hay nhà sản xuất âm nhạc David Browie.
Suit Double Breasted ngày nay
Qua thời gian, Suit Double Breasted ngày nay có nhiều sự thay đổi, sắc nét và hiện đại. Chiều dài áo ngắn hơn với phần eo được ôm sát theo cơ thể, tạo đường nét thon thả. Phần cúc áo có thể linh hoạt sử dụng 2 khuy, 4 khuy hoặc 6 khuy tuỳ theo mong muốn. Bên cạnh đó, ve áo nhọn (Peak lapel) được thiết kế to hơn, phần ve nhọn đẩy cao khiến cho người mặc cảm giác cao hơn. Đôi khi để thêm phần trang trọng phần Ve cổ sẽ được phối satin thành bộ Double Breasted Tuxedo lịch lãm .
Single Breasted cũng đã được tinh chỉnh gọn gàng hơn với phần eo định hình theo form dáng cơ thể và chỉ sử dụng 1 - 2 khuy
Khi nào bạn sẽ chọn Suit Double Breasted?
Không có bất cứ một quy tắc nào cho việc này. Bạn hoàn toàn có thể tự do lựa chọn do đặc tính sang trọng mà một bộ suit mang lại
Nếu bạn đã có một vài bộ Suit 1 hàng khuy, thì có lẽ việc bổ sung vào tủ đồ một bộ Double Breasted sẽ là sự đầu tư đáng giá. Double Breasted đang là xu hướng tại thời điểm hiện tại. Một số người nghĩ rằng, bộ Suit Double Breasted chỉ phù hợp với những sự kiện trọng đại, đừng nghĩ vậy. Bạn hoàn toàn có thể tự tin đến công sở với một bộ Double Breasted với những gam màu lạnh như Navy, Charcoal, Black, kết hợp cùng với somi trắng, tối giản các phụ kiện như cavat, cufflink, khăn túi, set đồ của bạn dễ chịu và thoải mái hơn
Tiêu chuẩn
Dựa theo 3 lưu ý khi lựa chọn một bộ vest 2 dải khuy
1. Đường nét sắc sảo
Một bộ suit với đường nét sắc sảo, kĩ thuật cắt chính xác, vừa vặn với cơ thể sẽ luôn là sự lựa chọn tốt nhất, bạn sẽ hoàn toàn thoải mái khi chuyển động. Tại Việt Nam, bạn có thể xem xét dịch vụ may đo cá nhân để có được kết quả tốt nhất, tham khảo tại đây
2. Cài khuy
Luôn luôn cài khuy giữa đối với vest 6 khuy và khuy đầu tiên đối với vest 4 khuy, ít nhất cho đến khi bạn ngồi xuống
3. Linh hoạt
Ngoài việc sử dụng suit Double Breasted cho những dịp quan trọng, như đã nói ở trên, Double Breasted hoàn toàn có thể sử dụng hàng ngày. Kết hợp với một chiếc áo somi sáng màu với phần cổ áo được mở, một chiếc quần khác màu với sự hài hoà về màu sắc hay một chiếc áo len cổ lọ mỏng sẽ mang lại cảm giác phóng khoáng, trẻ trung, linh hoạt hơn.
Bên dưới là một tư liệu đầy đủ về sự lựa chọn Style a Double Breasted Suit bạn có thể đọc và tham khảo nhé
How To Choose and Style a Double Breasted Suit
In donning a double breasted suit you are making a statement. It’s a statement that can only be made by wearing a double-breasted suit. For you wear the suit, the suit doesn’t wear you, so check out this guide to see how to choose and style a double-breasted suit.
A double-breasted suit is one to always keep on hand for formal and business occasions. With its two columns of detailed buttons, it creates a sophisticated exterior to match that of the event. The wider panels of the suit overlap in order to fit neatly across one another. As the double-breasted suit should be worn while buttoned, it contributes to the overall polished look that the suit provides.
Coming in a multitude of styles, colours, and fits, you can determine the statement that you want to make when rocking your jacket. Whether that be deciding upon a slim fit double-breasted blazer in plaid or in navy, you are in control of the statement you wish to present.
PHOTO CREDIT: D Marge
Overview
The traditional double-breasted suit is comprised of a six by two button design along the front of the suit. With the buttons almost forming neat columns on the two panels of the suit, these buttons can act as an extra decoration to the suit.This classic design has a secret button in the inner panel of the left side of the jacket. This secret button is known as an anchor button that helps hold the suit together, so that the suit is laid nicely on your person. By having this anchor button, it adds to providing a slim fit double breasted suit.
At the top of your blazer, there are two wide set lapels. These lapels look like flaps at the top of your suit. While they may seem simply there for decoration, they hold a much bigger purpose. The lapels make your chest appear wider, similar to the way shoulder pads broaden your shoulders.
Next to the lapels is a small breast pocket. This pocket can be used to hold a handkerchief for use and decoration. There are also two larger pockets located toward the waist on each panel of the suit.
PHOTO CREDIT: Pinterest
How Double-Breasted Suits Should Fit
The key to wearing a men’s double-breasted blazer is the fit. If the suit doesn’t fit just so, then it needs to be hemmed or tailored to fit your body type, or perhaps you are in need of a new suit altogether. Before looking for a new suit, make sure you have all your correct measurements with you, from your chest size to shoulders and waist.Double-Breasted Jacket |PHOTO CREDIT: blacklapel.com
Buttons
When buttoning your double-breasted jacket, you must be able to button your suit. As an obvious start, if you can’t button your suit than your suit is too small. The jacket should be buttoned comfortably where it is not too tight, nor too loose on your body. The right fit will accentuate your body without taking away from your form. So, if your buttons seem to be pulling at one another it is time to look for a new suit.Shoulders
The suit’s seam should sit perfectly on your shoulders. This means that the seam must end when it reaches your shoulders, just as a shoulder pad needs to stop at the shoulders as well.Arms
The length of the sleeves of the jacket must meet at the middle of your palm. If the sleeve is any longer that that, then the sleeve is too long for your arm. The sleeve itself should fit, comfortably along your arms.PHOTO CREDIT: Men's Style Fashion | PIinterest | Deep U Fashion
Chest
When donning your jacket, there should be no more than a fist worth of space between you and the jacket. The blazer needs to fit your body type and enhance it.Hemline
The hem of your double-breasted suit jacket should end just at your hip. This is important to have the correct length or it may look like it doesn’t fit you.Trousers
Every great double-breasted suit would be nothing without a matching pair of trousers to finish off the look. In order to find a pair that fits correctly measure your inseam, waist, and leg.Choosing a Men's Double Breasted Suit
Now that you have the fit down, there are many extras that need to be taken into consideration. Each one will contribute to the statement you want your suit to convey.Lapels
At the top of each suit there are two folded flaps. These flaps are known as lapels and can make your frame appear broader. There are three different widths of the lapels from slim, which is between 2.25 and 2.75 inches, and wide, being at 3.77 and 4.5 inches. The regular or standard size is 3 to 3.5 inches wide.Double Breasted Jacket | PHOTO CREDIT: realmenrealstyle.com
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Notch Lapel
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Peak Lapel
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Shawl Lapel
Buttons
When it comes to buttons, they act both as accents and functions to the suit. The double-breasted suit should always have the bottom buttons buttoned with the top an optional style.Colours
Choosing a colour for your suit can be a daunting task, but can have an immense impact on your outlook on the suit. So, select a double-breasted suit jacket on both the fit and the colour.-
White Double Breasted Suit
PHOTO CREDIT: Pinterest
There’s something about white suits that just seem to pop. The light and airy look makes this colour wonderful for the summer and spring.
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Double-Breasted Pinstripe Suit
Long elongated lines, line the entire suit. Coming in a variety of colours, the pinstripe suit is a classic style.
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Black Double Breasted Suit
The all-black look has always been popular, when searching for a go-to look the black double-breasted suit is the way to go.
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Blue Double Breasted Suit
PHOTO CREDIT: Pinterest
Both blue and navy provides a sophisticated, yet bold statement to your suit.
Cuffs
When looking at the cuffs of the jacket the more buttons on the cuff equates to a more formal occasion. On a suit’s cuff there tends to be one to four buttons arranging from casual to formal. The spacing of the buttons can also, change the look of the jacketPHOTO CREDIT: realmenrealstyle.com
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Spaced
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Kissing
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Stacked
Double Breasted Suit vs. Single-Breasted Suit
Are double breasted suits in style? Well, they are quite popular in the moment. With their wider panels and two columns of buttons, the slim fit of the jacket makes them both sophisticated and attractive.On the other hand the single-breasted suit is also popular. Single-breasted suits have one to three buttons lining the front of the suit instead of four to eight as a double-breasted suit does.
The single-breasted can have notch, peak, or shawl lapels, unlike the double-breasted, which only comes with peak or shawl lapels. The most generic lapel for the single is the notch lapel, and the peak for the double-breasted.
The main difference between the two comes down to how formal the suit is. The double-breasted suit jacket by a rule of thumb is more formal than a single-breasted jacket.
PHOTO CREDIT: realmenrealstyle.com
How To Wear a Double Breasted Suit
While sporting a double-breasted jacket, you need the right occasion to wear it to. You don’t wont to be overdressed or underdressed when going to events. The key is wearing the best fitting suit and look to each event. So, next time you break out your double-breasted suit jacket dress for the event. For it is important to dress to impress when donning your suit at your next formal event.Business Meeting
At a business meeting you want to be professional and be taken seriously. Show that you are the best man for your job with a great suit. Sport a blue pinstriped double-breasted suit with a blue or red tie. It will present an intelligent look and given a pair of brown loafers to earn that promotion.PHOTO CREDIT: Lookbook
Job Interview
An all-black look can sometimes overdo it for a job interview. Stand out from the crowd with a nice grey double-breasted suit jacket and a matching trouser. For the shirt find a clean oxford shirt. Don a pair of Dr Martens to finish off the interview right.PHOTO CREDIT: The Idle Man| SHOP: Suits|Shoes
Date Night
Going out on a date you want to look and feel your best. There can be so many unknowns, especially going on a first date, the last thing you want to worry about is your outfit. So, go for a more casual double-breasted blazer with a dark trouser and a black Memphis styled shirt. The dark colours will make the outfit look very put together.PHOTO CREDIT: The Idle Man | SHOP: Jackets | Trousers
Wedding
Bells are ringing and choirs are singing, it’s an occasion that is bright and merry. Come ready to celebrate in a double breasted tux for this black tie affair. Add a pair of black Oxfords with a matching tie. For a simple, yet refined look.PHOTO CREDIT: The Idle Man | SHOP: Tuxedos
Funeral
While funerals are always a sad affair, you don’t always have to wear an all-black look. Sport a navy double-breasted suit with a neutral collared shirt. By donning navy blue, it will show that you’re there to celebrate and commemorate the life of the one you are attending for.PHOTO CREDIT: Men's Suit Tips
Church
A pinstriped double-breasted suit and a Hudson slip-on shoe is the perfect combination for attending church. The pinstriped design adds character, yet remains a faithful appearance.PHOTO CREDIT: Gentlemens Division
Theater
Whether going to the theatre or the opera, a white double-breasted suit can do no wrong. It’ll let you stand out from the crowd shining in white. Add a black handkerchief and dark loafers to polish off your look.PHOTO CREDIT: Dress Like